The Bloodletting before the Rebooting of Burberry

by Linda Bezos

This is not Riccardo Tisci's collection but a curated collection of what has been Burberry's strength..their branding. It is a celebration of what makes Burberry, Burberry. The traditionalism through the means of legacy clothing is fully present in this resort collection. And there is enough reason to believe under Tisci's leadership Burberry might become more avant-garde, more youthful than it ever was. And in that regard, this is more of a swansong or a bookend, to a new chapter that is beginning. 

The Homecoming of Venus with Francesco Scognamiglio

by Lydia Schaff 

Scognamiglio’s 20-years-long exploration of couture through the prism of whimsy and sex appeal were on full display at his Capri show. His ability to construct the allure of a diva tightly knitted into a ball of sexual energy and elegance enhanced even the most functional of couture pieces. If that wasn't enough his silhouettes were more form fitting than any during the Haute Couture. It is no surprise to see Maison Francesco Scognamiglio thriving for 20 years as a formative experience creator for the exclusive haute couture club.

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood = VW 2.0

by Naomi Smith

Andreas Kronthaler took over the reigns of Vivienne Westwood few cycles ago. And his bridal collection is not much of a bridal collection but more of a statement of intent. And the intent is to disrupt, the intent is to remain at the helm of avant-garde. The Corset gowns have morphed into a bridal dress of sorts, the suspenders are added into the realm of avant-garde bridal fashion too. A collection full of separates and outright rejection of the bridal philosophy. Ultimately that has always been the foundation of VW's philosophy and Andreas Kronthaler is no mug when it comes to courting the right kind of disruption. 

More than an Attitude with Just Cavalli

by Lotus Ladegaard

When Roberto Cavalli invented and patented a printing procedure on leather and created patchwork of different materials, back in the early 70’s, his fashion career immediately took off with commissions from the likes of Hermès and Pierre Cardin. In 2000, he created a new line; Just Cavalli dedicated to a new generation of free spirits. With a focus fusing innovative materials and graphics with the Cavalli tradition, he created a line that is fashion-forward, edgy and youthful. 

The Just Cavalli Pre Fall 2019 is the first by creative director Paul Surridge, and it has been much anticipated. Paul Surridge’s vision for Just Cavalli, by the looks of the Pre Fall 2019 collection is a wider range with offerings for most body types, flowy as well as fitted pieces. He has also given the brand’s aesthetic a more contemporary wider appealing feel, while utilising the cornerstones of the Just Cavalli; animalier prints, sexy edge and the rock’n’roll attitude cleverly subtle. Gone is the over-embellishment and instead you find bright popping colours and homage to the brand’s heritage. 

For Pre Fall 2019, Paul Surridge had chosen a vibrant colour palette ranging from romantic pinks to bright popping yellow, animalier prints and denim. It offered several stand out pieces and offered different styles with flowy dresses and trench coats for the bohemian fashionistas, the animalier prints had been reworked to mimic abstract graphics that are less ‘in your face’ and thus will appeal to a wider audience. Edgy and funky denim looks, as well as an exquisite yellow suit, shows that Paul Surridge has not forgotten about the Just Cavalli attitude.  
 

Dolce & Gabbana's This American Life

by Olivia Moreau

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have been a constant fixture for the Metropolitan Opera in New York and since both of them share a deep love and nostalgia for the place, it was no surprise to find a D&G show to embrace the atrium of MOH. 

The couture show which had the underlying theme of celebrating America (a hard task in this climate of anti-intellectualism, anti-immigration and anti-facts) touched on some of the political upheavals but not to the point which would upset more illiberal buyers. The clothes were classic Dolce & Gabbana with fine craftsmanship and kitsch playing the central role. Despite the exhaustive number of looks what stood out were the outright homage to Americana. It was an experience as opposed to just a fashion show and that is what D&G offers each cycle with ease.  

                                             Photographs Courtesy of Dolce & Gabbana

Ralph Lauren's Subtle Reinvention

By Lotus Ladegaard

Ralph Lauren started his eponymous brand more than 50 years ago with a men’s tie line. Inspired by sports, he named his very first collection ‘Polo’ and since became known for his polo shirts. However, many years have passed since then and, today, Ralph Lauren is much more than a somewhat preppy polo shirt. Over the years, Ralph Lauren has also become known for his take on American sportswear that always offers style with comfort.

Ralph Lauren’s 2018 Prefall collection is rather intriguing. It offered a little bit of everything and takes you on quite the journey. The collection is sleek and elegant, it is minimal yet striking and elegant. The colour palette was kept simple with grey and brown tones ranging from metallic to mat. Several looks stood out such as the champagne coloured sleek dress with low back and the metallic grey dress, they were cleverly understated, elegant and would make an impact at the right occasions. Other stand out pieces were the coats and jackets, in general the suiting was brilliantly executed with several exquisite androgynous suits, jackets and coats, especially the navy shawl tuxedo blazer with casual pants stood out. The pantsuits ranged from classic to contemporary with references to American workwear. A metallic flight suit stood out as did a brown pantsuit with wide legs styled with a cute brown bag. A metallic bomber jacket along with a furry and metallic blush flight suit kept the collection contemporary and youthful.

Looking at the 2018 Prefall collection, one might wonder where the comfort of Ralph Lauren has gone. But do not despair, Ralph Lauren know his strong following and know they value comfort as much as style and elegance and thus the adorable lurex sweaters and pleated skirts come with a soft cashmere lining.

Ralph Lauren has created an intriguing and exciting 2018 Prefall Collection with pieces for any fashionista with a preference for the comfortable.

Galia Lahav and the Celebration of Exquisite

by Lotus Ladegaard

Design is in the genes of Galia Lahav who grew up in a family of seamstresses in Russia. She launched her brand as an embroidery and knitted applique shop in her very own hometown but quickly began to design for brides. In November 2016, Galia Lahav was granted couture status by the prestigious Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. 

With an eye for beauty, details, and embellishments, Galia Lahav wants to make every bride feel like a superstar on the red carpet. Craftmanship, attention to details and intricacy are within the DNA of the brand, and hours are spent creating one final look. Approx. 1000 embroidery designs are created for just one final look. And the result is exquisite, feminine and fierce, it is easy to see why Galia Lahav is adored by both a strong celebrity following as well as fashion editors alike. 

For Bridal Spring 2019, Galia Lahav presented a charming, feminine and lavish collection that offered everything from feminine grand ballgown to detailed embellished mermaid dresses that would do well on the red carpet as well as down the aisle. 

Galia has an eye for details and the Bridal Spring 2019 collection was no exception. With clever cut-outs, large and luxurious appliques, textile choices and beading, Galia Lahav managed to make every single gown stand out.  The ballgown with a shimmering skirt and floral appliques and a small cut-out and the lace gown with a deep plunging V-neck with beaded straps and bodice were exceptional on so many levels. Her simple ballgown with a bow at the waist is delightful and charming. The lace a line with a deep V-neck embellished with floral appliques are romantic, glamorous and feels like old Hollywood. 

Galia Lahav is a master at her craft. Each passing season that mastery pushes her to a legendary status among the current crop of exceptional designers.
 

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Decked out in Art Deco with Zuhair Murad

by Lotus Ladegaard

In just a few years, Zuhair Murad has conquered the throne of bridal with his unique eye for textiles, embellishments, and details. He has consistently wowed with his bridal collections and it is easy to see why his fans include fashion editors, influencers, celebrities and fashionistas alike.

For Bridal Spring 2019, the Lebanese designer presented an exquisite and beautiful collection that offers everything, we have come to expect; it feels luxurious and looks amazing, it is editorial and will appeal to a wide variety of women. From the soft and feminine to art deco lines with influences from the Chrysler Building in New York, from ballgown to fit and flare, Zuhair Murad do it all fiercely. His collections and design are anything, but simple; they are intricate, detailed and embellished, something not all designers master.

While his inspiration, undoubtedly, was the Art Deco Movement of the 1930s, he did not forget about his followers who adore his floral embroidery, or those who fancy something a little more traditional like a sleeveless applique tulle gown with a bow belt, which really stood out and will excite fashion editors around the globe. Another stand out was the Art Deco inspired slim line dress with a detachable train which gave hints to Old Hollywood. Other pieces and details such as capes, detachable trains, ostrich feathers embellishments and Art Deco embroidery only added to that feeling.

Zuhair Murad delivered a solid and breath-taking Bridal Spring 2019 collection true to his aesthetics. Zuhair Murad brides around the world will undoubtedly line up for one of his creations.

 

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Mary Katrantzou's Rothchild Excursion

by Olivia Moreau 

Mary Katrantzou is a visionary. So was the second Baron Rothchild who invested a substantial amount of his wealth into his interest in zoology, which led to the creation of the national history museum in London. Mary Katranzou was invited by the current heir to the Rothchild name to incorporate her psychedelic prints into the rich tapestry of the museum. And in this resort collection, she does exactly that. Soaked in the patterns of feather and exotic flowers, liberal lashings of lamé, glittering sequins, and multicolored stripes are all part of this visually delectable collection that is bound to grace the many lavish parties and weekends of the world's elites and fashion aficionados.  

Après Moi, Le Deluge with Chanel

by Linda Bezos

Chanel can be nauseatingly good at selling clothes. It has to do with its branding and poise, creativity and large market base. So this years collection is no different in that regard. From 70s ruffles laden exploration to the classic tweedy Chanel experience this is a collection is as much of a retrospective as it is a move forward for Karl. The romanticism is evident, the global appeal is always building, and the tiring, towering line of models with excellent clothes is all too familiar. After Karl (we must ask) is the deluge?  

Tessa's LA Charm

In her fourth season, Los Angeles designer Tessa Matthias is bridging the gap between athleisure and trend specific luxury wear.  Tessa's Fall collection is full of promise and clarity of designer who is learning and evolving much faster than most designer her age. From machine washable cashmere to scuba-inspired track pants Tessa find a niche' within a niche' market while remaining every so appealing to the greater aesthetic of functional fashion. 

Alberta Ferretti and the Siren Song of Romanticism

by Olivia Moreau

Hyper-femininity is what drives Alberta Ferretti. She does not hold back when it comes to finding the poetry and romanticism in her work. Her couture (limited edition collection) has all the makings of a designer clear in her vision and expert in her execution. Her romanticism is not frivolous, it is driven by a certain charming efficiency. From more structured attire to more loose ethereal silhouettes, her work touch to holy grails of fashion... minimalism, and expansiveness. 

 

The Gonzo Opera of Alexandre Vauthier's Backstage

by Lotus Laadegaard | Photographs by Omi 

Shortly following his graduation from ESMOD, Alexandre Vauthier joined Thierry Mugler’s design studio. In Thierry Mugler, Alexandre Vauthier found a mentor, supporter and a teacher. Later, he joined Jean-Paul Gaultier as Head Designer of the Couture Collection before he launched his own brand in 2009 during Paris Fashion Week. Two years later, he was accepted as a guest member of Chambre Syndicate de la haute couture becoming an official member in 2014 and thus his fashion house can use the term haute couture. With radical cuts and a natural need for preciseness and rigor, Alexandre Vauthier has created his own style inspired by French culture and Anglo-Saxon influences. His creative universe is not limited to fashion alone but embraces music, ready-to-wear, perfume and interior design. Alexandre Vauthier is already a fashionable force to be reckoned with and an intriguing one at that. 

So it was no surprise that his build up to his Haute Couture show was extraordinary and seeping with the collective genius of his ever-expanding narrative.  

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Vini, Vidi, Vici Versus Versace!

by Olivia Moreau

Versus Versace is the prelude to Donatella's ongoing consolidation of the Versace empire....and what an empire it is. Soaked in Italian whimsy and in your face branding, Versus is the younger sibling to a more nuanced Versace and with every season it becomes leaner, meaner and cooler. But behind the coolness, this is a celebration of Gianni's original designs with his signature on it (literally in some cases). Ultimately Versus is making it easier for Donatella to push her own vision into a fabled brand while maintaining a steady homage to a man who truly embodied what Italian fashion is.  

Victoria by Victoria Beckham on Bridging Gaps

Victoria Beckham is not here to reinvent the wheels but she does deconstruct a lot of our everyday attire with ease and poise of an artist. From downtown cool to avant-garde chic' her sister label is directed towards the more experimental crowd with an obvious homage to the confident women who wear her primary label.  The foundational aesthetics of the whole collection is based on the notion destructing masculinity and femininity and bridging that gap with less obvious silhouettes. And Victoria does it with ease. 

 

Rebeca de Ravenel's Midwinter's Dream

by Lotus Ladegaard

Rebecca de Ravenel might not be a household name, but her earrings have graced a many ears from London to Tokyo to New York since she launched the Les Bonbons silk chord ball-drop Bijoux in 2015. The multi-faceted designer, however, has many more talents and in September of last year, she launched her first ready-to-wear collection filled with caftans, kimonos, and dresses, all created and designed to compliment her earrings rather than the other way around. Her versatile style is easy-to-wear enough for the beach yet sophisticated enough for an evening out. The designs reflect Rebecca de Ravenel’s feel for today’s women and what they want.

For Fall 2018, Rebecca de Ravenel presented a feminine and sophisticated collection at New York Fashion Week. The colour palette matches and compliments her bijoux and offers reds, blues, neutrals and several prints. From outerwear and dresses to separates, the collection offers it all and then some. From flowy and easy-to-wear pieces to sleek and fitted pieces, Rebecca de Ravenel does it very well. Styled with care, each look compliments her bijoux and thus make for several standout looks.

Versatility is at the heart of the namesake brand and it is carried through in her Fall 2018 collection. The looks are easily dressed up and down with a few other garments or the addition of her very sophisticated and contemporary bijoux.

Rebecca de Ravenel’s Fall 2018 collection is what most women want; stylish, sophisticated yet comfortable and easy.

Nina Ricci and the Dreamscapes of Drama

by Sofia Boyce 

Guillaume Henry of Nina Ricci took a page (no pun intended) out of literature and 18th-century theater to find inspiration for Ricci's new collection. The stock characters in these plays with their mute yet elaborate existence are all too present in this rather whimsical collection.   If commedia dell’arte is the DNA then surely the oversized flexibility of the clothes are the legs that move this collection. While it is hard to imagine how successful this would be commercially, the whimsy and the levity of this collection are worth gushing over. The dramatic shapes overwhelm the senses in some situation but ultimately comes out as fun and functional with a hint of theater. It is a collection not for the faint hearted, neither it is a collection for the most audacious, but in between that those of us enjoy levity in our clothes and history on our shoes, this is a collection worth getting into.    

The Meritocracy of Paris Haute' Couture

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by Olivia Moreau

Couture Week in Paris is relatively small. Not because there aren't enough designers but to be truly considered couture you will have to be exceptional at what you do. In many ways being an Haute Couture house is the most rigorous credential in fashion. So it is no surprise many designers try and fail to become a true Haute Couture house and some just become faux-couture to give the impression that it is Haute Couture. Impressions, pretensions aside Paris Haute Couture is the foremost event during the fashion calendar when it comes to showing the actual work of the designers. So this year we decided instead of just covering FROW and runway during Haute Couture week, we are going to delve deep into the designers backstage. But being an avant-garde magazine that stands on the cusp of commercialization and art provides us with more flexibility in covering shows. So here are the three most anticipated shows by us during Paris Haute Couture Week. 

Alexandre Vauthier: Alexandre Vauthier's previous collection brought the 80s glam into the foray. His couture collection gave every indication that he is reviving the disco-excellence and big-hair-exuberance of ’80s haute couture.The shoulder-padded base layers, the glittery sway of supermodels, the see-through levity of sheer fabrics were all the rage during the 80s and Vauthier teased out the best of that era in that collection. We are excited to see his new collection and find out where this master of eroticism and femininity draws the line. We will cover Alexandre's backstage and Front Row with the same transparency as his now fabled dresses. 

Galia Lahav: Galia Lahav is the queen of bridal dressmaking. And her seamstress heritage, her decades creating magnificent couture have truly established her as one of the most intricate practitioners of Haute' Couture. Her lavish gowns are something we would be looking forward to and from backstage to frow we will dissect the beauty and the flow of her amazing career as a dressmaker of the utmost class. 

Zuhair Murad: Zuhair Murad requires no introduction. The Lebanese designer is a stalwart in this business and his work within the realms of Haute' Couture is evocative, romantic and often times outright elaborate.  We will shine a light on a career that already has reached dizzying highs. From the signature white to off white, Murad's show is likely to be of great interest to many buyers as his work sits right in the middle of art and commerce. 

Lastly, shows like Stephane Rolland and Iris van Herpen are likely to make a splash but in our opinion the most intriguing ones are the ones we discussed and will be covering along with a whole set of shows. To paraphrase the great Pierre Cardin, there are no bad shows in Haute' Couture. So hang on tight, we got you covered.  

 

 

 

The Circus of Excellence with Vivienne Westwood

by Lotus Ladegaard

Only a handful of designers and fashion brands are able to continuously excite and surprise like Vivienne Westwood, who has always managed to stand out among her peers in the world of fashion. Equally quirky and fashion-forward, the new Fall Collection is everything we have come to expect from the British designer, and with colorful editorial appeal, it is bound to excite fashionistas and fashion editors alike. Her ability to stay consistent and relevant is unprecedented, and while not to everyone’s taste, no one can deny that Vivienne Westwood is clearly still one of the most iconic fashion designers around.

The norm has never been something to follow according to the designer, who has styled her Fall Collection with models ranging from plus size to seniors, real size models to models of shapes we are familiar with. Subtle as well as more direct references to "Great" Britain, the British way of life, Brexit and the European Union can be found in Vivienne Westwood’s Fall Collection with that certain girl power edge the designer always brings to the table. 

The color palette offered any color of the rainbow and then some with bold prints and softer warmer earth tones. From suits to dresses, separates to gowns, everything is offered in this fresh and fashion-forward collection. Standing out was a mini collection of draped pastel pink pieces which were fresh and fashion-forward despite the dainty color, especially the draped shirt with oversized sleeves and the draped Grecian dress. A dark blue wrap dress in almost sheer fabric will be another winner among fashion-forward people around the world, the other dark blue dress with one shoulder and moderate sweetheart neckline styled with harness is also likely to be among the top sellers, even without the harness. Other standouts were the striped pieces, suits and dresses alike.  Especially the dresses are done in a busy colorful striped fabric and easy to wear. Tartan pieces are bound to excite the more avant-garde followers, and even win over new territory, especially the outerwear is edgy and just quirky enough while remaining very wearable. Several other pieces also made for a fantastic show such as the blush sequined wrap dress styled with ammunition and camouflage bag pack and the brown suit with an oversized shirt with cravat and the navy-blue cape styled with camouflage shirt and pants.

Vivienne Westwood’s Fall Collection is a tailoring masterpiece with the right amount of oomph and quirkiness to excite her followers.
 

Zuhair Murad and the Modern Bride

Zuhair Murad is the master of bridal gowns. His new collection further enhances his reputation as someone who is constantly thinking about his craft. Tulle and silk chiffon was the foundation of the dresses that were beaded, embroidered, and embellished to convey the right balance between elegance and ingenuity. The deep V's and elegant necklines added a layer of eroticism that sometimes escapes the bridal industry. A bold and elegant bride is Zuhair's primary muse and with each gown Zuhair provides an homage to the modern bride. 

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