Paco Rabanne and the Fiction of Functionality

by Olivia Moreau 

It's blistering in Paris. The heat is further exasperated by the visual of pre-fall clothing from many formidable names in fashion, but not Paco Rabanne. Julien Dossena's ability to conjure up small yet intrinsic change to details makes this connection a sight for sore eyes and weary heat stricken body. So much so that the see-now-buy-now model seems fully workable even in this Parisian heat. Fluid knit mesh tops, arching tanks, and low-slung skirts are all part of this subtle narrative of movement and functionality while remaining true to it's core philosophy. Paco Rabanne looks, feels formidable and sporty, functional and forward thinking and we could not ask for a better pre-fall/resort set. 

The Future is Here with Poster Girl

by Lotus Ladegaard

Behind Poster Girl are two designers Francesca Capper and Natasha Somerville who met while studying at Central Saint Martin’s in London. After working for designers such as Christian Dior, Bvlgari, Vivienne Westwood, Jeremy Scott, John Galliano and Alexander Wang, the duo founded Poster Girl. 

Poster Girl strives to be innovative and focusses on quality of each designs as well as the ethics of manufacturing. They aim to launch a limited and exclusive collection each season with the most sought after looks being made available immediately. And each season, they will bring a new signature fabric and technique to the cutting board.

Poster Girl’s latest lookbook offers an intriguing collection that feels fresh and fashion forward with a London edge that appeals to many European fashionistas. The colour palette is kept in metallic pastels; delicate blues and blush with the contrast of brighter pinks, turquoise and royal blue allowing the designs to really shine through. From high-slit dresses to tops, skirts and even scarves and bags, Poster Girls new collection has it all. The silhouettes are fresh and contemporary, the colours add a bit of glamrock to the styles.

Each style and separates come with a unique hemline, squared, zig-zag’ed or high-slit. Every garment become something more than just regular clothes; the tops are quirky and edgy, some with corset details, others are draped crop tops or one shoulder. The skirts are asymmetrical, high-slit, detailed with strings or draped. It resembles clothes that are already in most closets, yet they are far more complex and appealing. It will, however, be easy to tone the look down by pairing the separates with neutral colours and thus it is easy to fall for a more than a few of their looks. The edgy fashionistas will undoubtedly favour Poster Girl and their unique take on fashion and the details that make the brand stand out. The accessories; from bags to scarves and stockings, Poster Girl knows how to make a statement and leave an impression. Especially the bags are exquisite, fresh, fun and will certainly make you stand out in a crowd. 

Poster Girl might be new to the world of fashion, but their unique eye for details and design will cement them there for years to come. Poster Girl knows the fashion world, its demand and what it takes to intrigue fashionistas and fashion editors alike. Poster girl is the Poster child of the future.
 

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John Galliano sans John Galliano

by Olivia Moreau

John Galliano left his namesake brand in 2011 but the brand itself did not die out as it was nurtured by Galliano's confidant Bill Gaytten. Now it's 6th year without Galliano, the brand is flourishing and making a statement of its own. The ever-present blue roaring tiger embroidery on jackets and shirts, Marie Antoinette portraits on a T-shirt makes the brand more of Gaytten's brainchild as opposed to a Galliano project. And that is not a bad thing either. Gaytten infuses a sense of whimsy, a sense of movement, a sense of youthfulness that stands out and in many ways moves away from the ever long shadow of Galliano's genius. Gaytten is his own man, and John Galliano shows him in full bloom. 

Erdem and the Trance of Time

by Cara Livingstone

Flowery jacquard textiles and embroideries soaked in intricacy, the ’40s tea dresses whimsical in their artistry and the powder puff–feathered boas and jackets are all part of Erdem's signature now. The London-based Turkish born designer is one of the most sought after and beloved designers of our time and with each collection he defines what it is to be a global sensation. His ability to weave beyond the realm of trends and transcend fashion into heirloom territory has made him a master of his craft. And this collection is a testament to his ability to remain at the top of his game. 

 

The Mastery of Silhouettes with Armani

by Lotus Ladegaard

Giorgio Armani has over the years become known for both his clean tailored lines and his 2018 Resort collection does not sway from that. Although it is brighter, a tad airier and definitely more contemporary than usual yet is remains very Armani.

The color palette was delightful with poppy red, pink and a delicate blue mixed with classical Armani shades like blacks and greys and a couple of prints. The silhouettes are easy and modern yet never sways from being Armani-esque. His play with textures and fabrics adds another dimension to the collection; mixing new fabrics with natural fibres, a paperlike texture for the silk and a smoothened organza were all parts that makes this collection relevant, modern, fresh and youthful.

Armani excels when it comes to suiting and he offers plenty of variations in his 2018 Resort collection. One of the showstoppers is the black textured suit with a gray crop top underneath. Armani has a way with prints and another favourite is the printed fitted cocktail dress with a high neckline. The graphic print is bold and loud yet will appeal to many women around the globe. The dresses range from long and flowy to fitted and sleek and many in between. The little pink layered dress with halter-neck is exquisite and playful, while the flower printed pleaded dress is sophisticated and youthful. All in all, this is a collection from a master of silhouettes and drapes. 

 

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Piazza Sempione and the Rise of Italian Minimalism

by Linda Bezos 

Piazza Sempione is the epitome of fusion. A fusion of minimalism and a  sense of grandeur. PS's new pre-fall/ resort collection stands exactly where it needs to, in between functionality and elaborate expressionism. The Milanese house exudes a certain level of Scandinavian minimalism that is not very common within the confines of the Italian darling brands. This collection with its short trapeze-line tennis dress complemented by black piping, a scuba jersey, and a blue pleated shirtdress with an elongated waistline provides a holistic approach to minimalist aesthetics. While by definition that might seem like an oxymoron, the reality is the fine line between chic' and functional is being towed by the team at Piazza Sempione and it is a sight to behold.  

The Vendetta of Color with Bottega Veneta

by the Editorial Staff

Tomas Maier came into the Resort collection/ Pre-fall collection to bridge the gap between two major collections. And while some designers may find that process tedious and necessary and inevitable distraction, Bottega Veneta approaches this collection with the utmost clarity and professionalism. From the burgundy napa coat with analogue fastening on wide-billowed pockets to the printed butterflies clamoring for attention were both products of a designer who knows what he wants and knows how to get there. Not all resort/Pre-fall collections are meant to be substantive as they are still viewed as bridge clothes, something to hold you up til the real collection pops up, but Bottega Veneta has shown to be a master at holding you up with the same intensity and whimsy as if all collections are equal. 

Carolina Herrera's Secret Garden

by Erika Heinlein

Carolina Herrera has been an ever-present fixture in the world of fashion for the last three decades. And judging by the looks of the pre-fall/resort collection that is unlikely to change. This collection is an homage to her ancestral Venezuelan gardens. The flowy, flowery mix and match revolution is perfectly encapsulated in this collection of breezy gowns and taffetas. The alluring stripes complemented by summer induced fall colors is a joy to look at and even more fun wearing. It is a collection that exudes a sense of freedom that her home country has not seen in a while, but as all good artists she has created a collection of a better time or a future that is worth looking forward to. 

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Bridal Fall 2018 : Elie Saab's Embroidered Dreams

by Verena Lang

Elie Saab's fourth bridal collection brings in the imagery of grandeur and sophistication. Each piece has a story to tell and each piece fits with the grand narrative of Saab's vision. The white-on-white looks with exquisite embellishments introduce us to a collection that is dreamy, grand and above all perfect for the bride who appreciates intricacy over volume. 

Lemlem and the Stripped Goodness of Globalization

by Linda Bezos

Liya Kebede knows her stripes and by the looks of it, she also knows what her customers want as well. The new iteration of Lemlem's resort collection suggests an astute understanding of consumer mood and an appealing sense of aesthetics that fits in quite well in hot summers that precede mild winters in most fashion capitals. With the help of Ethiopian weavers and Indian seamstresses, Lemlem is forging ahead with the aesthetics of light and summery with a few distinctive twists. The stripes and the kaleidoscopic patterns enhance a sense of whimsy within the collection while maintaining a hint of extraordinary and functional. In a world of athleisure and couture, Lemlem fits right in the middle. 

Alena Akhmadullina and the Postcards from Russia

by Lotus Ladegaard 

Alena Akhmadullina has ruled the runways of Russia for many years with intricate embroidery and furs fused with a touch of Russian folklore. She has a strong Russian celebrity following but has also made her presence known on the international red carpets where stars like Eva Green and Naomi Campbell have worn her creations.

Alena Akhmadullina’s usual dark and mythic colour palette fused with heavily embellished fabrics are not for everyone, however, her 2018 Resort Collections shows great restraint and offers pieces that are much more likely to appeal to the European market, although, it might still be a bit too much for some.

For her 2018 Resort Collection, Alena Akhmadullina’s colour palette consisted mostly of fresh and light colours, bright yellow, royal blue and black. The silhouettes were somewhat expected and a little dated, but overall rather nice. The embellishments were pretty, although rather heavy at times. The collection ranged from shirt-dresses to outerwear and also offered many separates, which seems like a smart choice given her rather busy aesthetics.

The bright yellow shirt dress stood out as a stylish look paired with light blue boots and a box-bag. The green coat with floral embellishments was another favorite and has tons of editorial appeal. The simple cream colour coat would also suit many wardrobes. The little box-bags featured with many of the looks enjoy a certain versatility which you usually do not associate with AA. Overall the collection seems more inclusive, more mature and definitely worth a closer look.

Orla Kiely and the Monarchy of Prints

by Samantha Mitten

Orla Kiely does everything. She started off as a hat designer, moved on to kitchenware, handbags, and clothes. She is often considered the queen of prints and having her face on a postage stamp in Ireland only adds to the aura of invincibility and class, Orla's work exudes. 

This pre-fall collection is a testament to Orla's strengths. While it is nowhere near as legendary as her kitchenware, her fashion work remains of high caliber with a hint of whimsy. The prints are there to gush over, the silhouettes are there to ponder, but ultimately what makes this collection worth buying into both literally and figuratively is Orla's ability to craft fashionable, functional wear out which is playful and ingenious at its core. Yet that playfulness is subtle in the form of long skirts and dresses that are foundationally old-school but bears the hyper-modern aesthetics of Orla's prints. 

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Christopher Kane and the Dreams of Glasgow

by Lotus Ladegaard

Christopher Kane is all about the chic'. His signature design of innovation, rebellious femininity and sense of surprise has excited the world of fashion since 2006. He is a master at turning the ordinary into extraordinary, he knows how to embrace both the traditional with the contemporary, the timeless with the ephemeral and the sleek with the subversive. His unique take on exquisite technical textile and shapes has seduced many fashionistas around the world. Christopher Kane has found inspiration in Glaswegian architecture, furniture, and fabrics of Charles Rennie Macintosh and his wife Margaret Macdonald Mackintosh for his 2018 Resort collection. With permission to shoot his lookbook at the exclusive setting of the Mackintosh masterpiece; Hill House in Helensburgh, he has created an exquisite and exclusive narrative.

Christopher Kane’s 2018 Resort collection offers plenty of chic' and frilly knitwear pieces, tartan skirts, fuzzy jackets and beautiful evening gowns that all somehow fit the setting just perfectly. The little white lace biker jacket has the DNA of his previous collections. The delicate dress with white top and blush lace skirt moves the envelope forward. Its innovative and contemporary shape matched with old world lace is a classic Christopher Kane fusion. The Mackintosh influence is not only found in the setting, but the Scottish designer has incorporated Margaret Macdonald’s stylized snakehead drawing as an embroidery on several pieces. Christopher Kane never holds back in expressing his vision, sometimes that can be visually exhausting, but sometimes it is just right. 

 

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French Riviera and the Chill of Akris

by Olivia Moreau 

What do Alpha Women wear during their non-alpha days? It is likely they are wearing Akris. Albert Kriemler constructs this collection while paying homage to the french riviera. From t-shirts soaked in red to the whimsical sway of black evening dresses are all part of that casual yet put together look Akris is pushing this resort collection. 

Stella McCartney and the Nostalgia of Adidas

by Linda Bezos

Stella McCartney does not seem like the natural fit for Adidas.  But Stella has never been the one to fit into a box. And by that narrative, it is almost inevitable that she will go beyond the usual avenues of fashion collectives. Her cropped raspberry sweatshirt with orange high-rise leggings and a pair of ’90s-throwback Adidas Climalite slides in neon yellow post-workout looks were a testament to her ability to move through genres with the ease of bold colored yoga pants. Athleisure has a lot of fans and the line between urban wear and athleisure is too blurred to make a distinction anymore and with the rise of Nike and Adidas as purveyors of vintage, this collaboration bodes well for both Stella McCartney and Adidas.     

Oscar de la Renta and the Pursuit of Equipoise

by Samantha Mitten

Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia has a tough job, while maintaining their own sense of aesthetics they had to incorporate the substantial history of Oscar de la Renta into their collection. And if the palettes of citrusy orange and palm greens and the tropical prints and jacquards are any indication of how they are doing then it is safe to say they are doing quite well. Maintaining the classic silhouettes of OdlR while adding splashes of their own genius was the consistent theme in this years collection. While they are still in their infancy in terms of being creative co-heads at OdlR, they are building a strong foundation that may very well push OdlR in the right direction. 

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