The Edge of Noir with Kei Ninomiya

by Lotus Ladegaard

Inspired by his mentor, Rei Kawabuko, Kei Ninomiya continues to develop his own aesthetics by experimenting with textiles, pattern-cuts, and assembly techniques. The Japanese designer’s signature construction method is linking various laser-cut pieces together. His style is elegant avant-garde, and his collections certainly leave an impact.

The Fall 2021 collection entitled Metal Couture featured stainless-steel spikes, a play on silhouettes as well as some of his signature quirky avant-garde looks.

The spiked pieces felt eery and fabulously dark such as the first look with a sheer skirt with clusters of metal pearls and stainless-steel spikes on the bodice and shoulders or the balloon-shaped dress in black organza with the same pattern of pearl clusters.

The collection also featured some intriguing looks such as the pin-striped, purple, and black layered dress with ruffles as well as the pant-like skirt with oversize ruffled neckline shirt which was also featured on the sleeves.

As the showstopper, Kei Ninomiya had chosen a silver organza dress which seemed to be constructed to resemble the stainless-steel spikes on the first look. The dress was breath-taking, interesting, and very Kei Ninomiya.

With so many stand-out pieces, the collection will not be forgotten any time soon. While wearability might play a factor in its commercial success, editorially it will undoubtedly stand out.

Rodebjar and the Long Lost Italian Summer

by Olivia Moreau

Stockholm-based Carin Rodebjer is either bored of the Swedish functionality and sleek lines or is a big fan of the Amalfi coast. Whatever it is, it works for her as she constructed a set of clothes that are ethereal and light, loose and delicate in their silhouettes conjuring up nothing Swedish apart from the name. Nautical White to shades of prints in colored maze gives the collection the necessary 'gone fishing' vibe and provides a visual getaway for not only in Sweden suffering from the scandi-weather, but also in new york which is suffering from the cold sweet tooth of winter. This is escapism at it's most loose and finest.   

The Unflinching Identity of Alaia

by Moon Wilson

Azzedine Alaïa’s Alaia is never unsure of its identity. The posthumous designers maison has been producing work that is both true to his original vision and the expanded narrative it provides. From tight to loose silhouettes the form and function are fully embraced in this collection. A sense of whimsy in the form of flowy dresses, come hither neckline are built on top of that architecture of form and function. Alaia embraces the soft corners of femininity but also provides the basis for a bit of everything from traditionalism to avant-garde. The end result is a collection that may not suit one singular narrative but each look is built with one self sustaining storyline.

Narciso Rodriguez and the Gravity of Symmetry

by Lotus Ladegaard

Narciso Rodriguez launched his eponymous label in 1997. The Fashion House has had its ups and downs but nevertheless prevailed with much acclaim and success in a highly competitive industry. Over the years, he has gained a loyal following with celebrities and fashionistas around the globe. With his eye for simple yet intricate details, cuts and materials, he represents a somewhat more mature and evolved take on fashion.

Last year, Narciso chose to forego New York Fashion Week and his absence was certainly noticed and felt, but the Cuban designer has concentrated and focussed on what is most important to his Fashion House; the customers.

For Fall 2020, Narciso Rodriguez presented an intriguing and exquisite collection, much in line with the brand’s DNA. His eye for subtle yet contrasting details, cuts and materials made for a very sellable collection that is bound to excite fashionistas and fashion editors alike. His color palette was simple with colors of the season mixed with classic black and white and a few prints. The silhouettes varied from sleek to easy-to-wear and with a little twist to almost every style. The collection featured many stand out style such as the short-sleeved coat with cape effect at the back, and the camel draped dress and trousers styled with a burgundy jacket. Pieces like the black dress with blush details at the sides and front along with the fitted black dress with visible seams and mesh back were exquisite. Another showstopper was the black-draped fitted dress over a pair of black trousers. The many subtle details added a little extra to each of his styles and made for a very beautiful collection that is bound to do well. At first sight, the collection might not have the greatest appeal, however, at a second glance, it is absolutely exquisite, intriguing and feminine.

Zuhair Murad and the Red Dawn

by Olivia Moreau

Zuhair Murad sits firmly on top of the pile when it comes to the wedding couture market. But his non-wedding clothes has not truly made a mark up until this collection. That in itself is a surprise as Murad's catalog as impressive as almost any living greats at this point. This collection steeped in color and prints provided a fresher, younger and more untamed look to Murad's classic cuts and feminine silhouettes.  The red, the red , the red is almost as iconic looking as Valentino and the frocks and long dresses where his talent truly shines. It is a collection worth a double take. 

The Polity of Petar Petrov

by Lotus Ladegaard

Ukrainian-born designer Petar Petrov started his career in Men’s Wear, however, he quickly began designing for Austrian socialites and sophisticated women, and the many formal events the Austrian capital has to offer. In 2009, he founded his eponymous label focussing on creating timeless pieces with a feminine silhouette and impeccable tailoring. He studied fashion at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna under Raf Simons and has also enjoyed tutoring from the design duo Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, who is behind the brand Viktor & Rolf. He has built his brand on word to mouth, shooting most of his collection at his very own Viennese apartment. He has accomplished quite the popularity by using just influencers and having the right clientele. Whether or not that strategy is sustainable is anyone's guess but so far he has made the right decisions at the right time. 

For Resort 2019, Petar Petrov presented a rather androgynous collection filled with tailored dresses and suiting. The colour palette was fairly simple and featured classic black and white along with a few colours both subtle and bold and a variety of prints. The silhouettes were tailored and androgynous with a feminine flair. The collection as a whole is interesting and features some stand-out pieces that is bound to excite women looking for versatile pieces. 

His eye for tailoring truly shines when it comes to suiting, and while some of the silhouettes are somewhat androgynous, he still manages to highlight and accent the female curves. The dresses are flowy, and one can almost imagine their movement, although many are starting to expect a real show where the dresses truly come to life from the Bulgarian raised designer. 

The polka-dotted maxi dress in black and white is exquisite, easy-to-wear and easy to imagine a socialite wearing at their preferred resort. The bold orange snake-printed dress was another standout and will work well for many occasions. 

The many high-waisted trousers with incorporated belts were also exquisite and felt contemporary and classy. The black suit with oversized shirt also stood out among the suiting pieces as well as the pink suit with a lighter tone shirt with long sass from the neckline. 

Overall, Petar Petrov delivered a promising Resort 2019 collection that will take his followers by storm and might win over new ones.
 

Celine, Into the Wild

by Lotus Ladegaard

Since early 2018, Celine has undergone a style change under the direction of Hedi Slimane, who’s approach is much more influenced by indie rock and the adolescent spirit. The infusion of his aesthetics has undoubtedly made the French fashion brand much more relevant and focused on the future.

This resort collection felt easy and fresh, filled with items to mix and match with just about any existing wardrobe. Truly relevant with the current status quo of the world, the collection featured jeans, dresses, outerwear, and cozy sweaters which could be worn any time of the year although probably not anywhere.

Pieces like the black vest styled with a white shirt, a pair of jeans and a leather bag and the oversized sweater almost resembling an anorak are bound to have some youthful appeal.

Overall, Hedi Slimane delivered a collection that will do and sell well with its easy-to-mix appeal and youthful aesthetics.

The New Normal with Viktor and Rolf

by Lotus Ladegaard

For this season, Viktor and Rolf could not host a presentation but instead had to rely on the virtual showing. Nevertheless, the Bridal Spring 2021, has so much editorial appeal that we do not mind at all. The Dutch designer duo delivered intriguing collection filled with the intricate and beautiful details, we have come to expect from the couture fashion brand. The collection featured looks for, not just a single type of woman, but for a variety of them. The silhouettes featured statement pieces as well as softer, easier silhouettes than prior seasons.

Pieces like the easy-to-wear dress with ruffled neckline and back and pockets along with the one-sleeved kaftan like dress stood out as showstoppers. The Bridal Spring 2021, Viktor and Rolf collection did not lack the couture dresses either. Pieces like the fitted one-shoulder dress with a large bow and draped half-cape effect at the back along with the art-deco trained dress with a bow at the top and the strapless ballgown embellished with 3D flowers and tuile underneath were Viktor and Rolf classics that surely will excite their loyal following. Viktor and Rolf’s Bridal Spring 2021 collection was full of showstoppers and stand-out pieces. It will undoubtedly do well with fashionistas and fashion editors alike around the globe.

Carolina Herrera's Philadelphia Story

by Lucie Niemans

Spring may very well be Carolina Herrera's favorite time of the year as it exudes the same energy CH brings to the cutting board. Wes Gordon's first spring bridal collection is svelte and efficient. The beauty of those strong lines and evocative silhouettes are just part and parcel of a collection that is brimming with youthful nostalgia and traditionalism. Minimalism with something added to it almost like an heirloom is the foundational aesthetics of this collection. Functionality wrapped in a nice little bow of excellence is what makes this collection a favorite of the season. 

Conquering Color with Diane Von Furstenberg

by Lotus Ladegaard

Scotsman Jonathan Saunders joined DVF almost a year ago and he has made quite the impact with fashion editors and fashionistas alike with his bias-cut floral prints, vibrant colours and youthful take on the brand’s aesthetics. Saunders excited with a Pre-fall and a SS17 collection that paid homage to the iconic brand known for its 70’ies wrap dresses fused with contemporary ease and style, his Resort 2018 collection will, no doubt, excite just as many and win a lot of admirers outside the usual circles of fashion forward people.

The DVF Resort 2018 collection is vibrant, colourful, bold and exciting. New silhouettes and cuts have been added while it still builds on the prior SS17 and Pre-fall collection. It is due in November and thus Saunders has experimented with a few holiday items with jewel-toned velvet stripe as well as a layered printed slip over fine-gauge knit. Jackets, coats and pants were also part of the collection in different cut and style to suit many women.

DVF is known for its summer dresses and Jonathan Saunders exceeds his previous collection with several dresses that will excite DVF fans and even attract new ones. The purple floral printed dress in ruched silk is going to be a crownd-favourite. Though the cut is not for all shapes, it is a sexy little dress that will work for many occasions. Another hot ticket item is the multi-coloured striped dress with cape, it is classic yet modern and never fails to exude DVF. The dresses, in general, have a youthful and modern feel to them which will win over many of the younger fashionistas.

Jonathan Saunders has successfully attracted new fans and followers with his unique eye and take on the brand’s aesthetics, yet managed to hold onto its loyal followers. And that in fashion circles is a job well done. 

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Soft Aesthetic Pleasures of Kate Spade

by Olivia Moreau

Kate Spade has always been a staple when it comes to accessories and handbags. Expanding that universe to incorporate clothing can be a bit tricky, but Nicola Glass does it with an air of ease. For the Resort collection, Kate Spade's primary aesthetics is firmly rooted in soft colors and equally delicate floral prints. From the reintroduction of archival aesthetics through Kate Spade handbags to flowy tonlality of the dresses this collection veers into the territory of universalism as opposed to appealing to a niche’ sets of consumers. It is inevitably one of the most complete collection Kate Spade has produced in the last few cycles. This in itself suggests a strong evolution that is in tune with KS’s history within the accessories market while keeping pace with the rest of the big houses in fashion.

Marchesa and the Endless Spring

by Lotus Ladegaard

Marchesa is a staple in the world of fashion when it comes to formal and bridal wear. With an eye for delightful details, intricate embroidery and draping along with luxurious and ethereal textiles, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig have created a brand that oozes femininity and remains a staple on the runway as well as the red carpet despite the recent negative attention that Marchesa seemed to have weathered.

Marchesa’s Bridal Spring collection is exciting, bold and feminine. It features styles that will appeal to a large variety of brides and thus will undoubtedly be hot with any bride-to-be, this season. With their usual mix of embroidered silk, 3D embellished chiffons and organza Marchesa knows how to impress and make an impact that will last.

Several looks and details in the collection stood out and will be remembered. The play on vails adds another dimension to bridal wear and will most likely be sought after. Looks like the fitted corsage dress with draped bow and trail and the over-the-shoulder ballgown with deep décolletage stood out and left an impression. The draped dress with sheer and embroidered cape was another stand out along with a-line dress with the asymmetrical embroidered cape. Naturally, the collection also featured several classic looks such as satin fit-and-flare with exaggerated over the shoulder sleeves and a beautiful lace a-line with key-hole back detail and several ballgowns.

Marchesa is a staple when it comes to bridal wear, and we doubt that will change any time soon, and it is easy to see why. The designer duo knows the brand’s appeal, its ability, and limits and thus moves within those boundaries much to the excitement of their loyal followers.

The Second Coming of Luisa Beccaria

by Amanda Hanson

Luisa Beccaria and Couture have always had an intricate relationship. Despite not having a proper couture collection since 1995, her work has always coat-tailed along couture among the more hip crowd. The ever-present sense of femininity with a dash of ethereal whimsy is the foundation of Luisa’s work and that is translated into a universal language of high couture in this collection. Unlike the plethora of haute couture houses who view “more as more”, Luisa focuses more on the personal experience of wearing couture… of looking at couture as the vehicle of supreme individuality. And for that, it is a great joy to welcome her back.

Giving into Givenchy

By Linda Bezos

Givenchy knows what it is doing. This pre-fall collection is all about lines and details. From printed suits to chic' coats the entire collection is set up to convey the confidence of a brand that is at it's creative best. Multi-colored skirts and brooding sunglasses are complemented by delicate long coats whimsical belts. It is a collection meant for people who already know what they like and have no problem acquiring them. 

Calvin Klien and the American Divide

by Olivia Moreau

A hallucinatory farm scene in the New York stock exchange seems like an appropriate way of presenting Calvin Klien/Raf Simons new iteration on the American classic. The aesthetic was purely directed toward the Americana meets Justin Timberlake crowd but it was done in a way that even the most notorious of doubters can get into it. The transitional nature of the clothes from stripped fireman jackets to chiffon gowns were all part of the narrative of American division, and the inevitable divide that separates the prosperous coasts from the struggling underbelly of the midwest. As if you push that point home the visuals (paper popcorn bags) exuded a tense balance between a country divided and a country trying to move forward. It was probably the best show during an underwhelming fashion week. 

The Whimsical Blues of Erdem

by Lotus Ladegaard

Established in 2005, Erdem has become synonymous with experimental textiles, vibrant prints, versatile yet powerful femininity that speaks to a variety of women. Behind the brand also known for its detailed craftmanship is Turkish Canadian designer Erdem Moralioglu, who studied at the prestigious Royal College of Art and interned with Vivienne Westwood. Over the years, the talented designer has received many awards and accolades and gained a wide celebrity following. 

Drawing on inspiration from the work of photographers Diana Arbus and William Eggleston, Erdem has created an interesting and bold Resort collection that will charm his fans and intrigue new ones. Bold floral prints, dramatic collars, and vintage elbow-length gloves all culminated in several stand-out looks with tons of editorial appeal. 

Styled with unusual, at times even funny, hats, calf-length stockings and odd loafers, some looks seemed to clash more than match yet still somehow worked together. The colour palette was busy with several floral prints from the darker and dustier tones such as navy blue, black and grey to lighter tones such as pink, white and metallic silver. The Victorian and pipe collars stood out and certainly made a focal point borderlining the avant-garde yet remaining very Erdem-esque. The Turkish and Canadian designer had also played with the silhouettes almost distorting them to mimic a dress that had its lining pulled out without actually distorting them. 

Among the stand-out looks were a couple of sheer chiffon dresses in silver and navy blue with white dots styled with a sass at the waist tied in a bow as well as a pink floral coat with pleting at the back. Many of the floral dresses felt romantic and feminine with a vintage feel that undoubtedly will do well with many fashionistas around the globe. 

Erdem has created a very intriguing Resort 2019 collection with tons of editorial appeal that will only cement him further into the world of fashion.
 

Alejandra Alonso Rojas and the Rise of the Anti-Trend

by Olivia Moreau

Alejandra Alonso Rojas does not follow trends. She is part of a movement that is slowly permeating the collective psyche of consumers who are rejecting the insta-driven, blog-pushed marketing trends that follow the feral consumerism of fast fashion masquerading as art. So to classify any of AAR's work within the realms of any cycle is a hard task and we rather not do that. Ultimately her current collection is a product of her foundational values of trend-free fashion and stands proudly on excellent tailoring, bespoke work on leather and fabrics. From family albums to old French mills, AAR finds her muse, her inspiration and the love she feels for creating exquisite fabrics comes through the work she produces. Incorporating hand-techniques of old latin bespoke masters (which by the way cannot be replicated by a machine...yet), she delves into the deep end of the bespoke slow fashion revolution and few years down the road would be considered to be one of the most important designers among her peers. 

Ultimately AAR's collection is a process where a product is brought into life with the added benefit of having history and craftsmanship smeared all over it. To create vintage now is a holy grail many have tried and failed... in AAR's case failure is neither an option nor an end result. 

Built on Eileen Gray with Max Mara

Cara Livingstone

Ian Griffiths of Max Mara is not unfamiliar with the history of feminism. His latest collection finds inspiration in the life of  Eileen Gray, a female architect of the early 20th century, who broke the glass ceiling and blazed a trail through her own for a generation of female architects. Her subtle yet exquisite style is the perfect prototype for Max Mara and its philosophy. The marinière stripe knits provides the foundation for this collection and the dignified style is sure to be popular with woman of a certain class and quality. 

Isabel Marant and the Tightrope of Athleisure

by Samantha Mitten

Pre-fall is a curious time for designer houses. It's neither here nor there. So pre-fall has become a far more experimental avenue to promote what is already in the pipeline for fall. Isabel Marant understands that very well and in many ways, her pre-fall collection is a collection that is seasonless. The clever, the chic' and above all the Parisian philosophy behind these clothes are what makes them so evocative and worthy of a double take. The skin tight pants to blazers to leggings make this collection a testament to Isabel's ability to find equipoise between leisure and athletic without going overboard into athleisure territory. 

Elie Saab's Evolving Symmetry

by Lydia Schaff

Elie Saab’s bridal wear has always been filled with lace, embellishments, elaborate silhouettes, waist-defining belts along with fairytale narratives. But this specific collection moves intricately within that realm to provide something more streamlined and minimalist (compared to the previous collections). Tighter symmetry complemented by craftsmanship of the highest quality is what this collection is about. The collection brims with a new found sense of optimism and modernity. Elie Saab is always evolving as all great designers do.

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