Tailored for the Streets by Armani

by Oksana Petrova

The highs and lows of streetwear are well documented. But what has been a consistent force within styling of streetwear is the notion of deconstruction. But that tide is slowly turning and streetwear is becoming more tailored, more structured. And Armani has noticed this wind of change. This pre-fall collection is an acknowledgment of that shift. A push towards a more dynamic, colorful collection with the foundation of a structured silhouettes is the primary thing to take in here from this exquisite collection. Armani is not reinventing itself, it is just becoming more relevant.

30 Years of Moving Fashion Forward with Vera Wang

by Lotus Ladegaard

Vera Wang is celebrating her 30th anniversary in the fashion industry with a knock-out Bridal Collection for Fall 2020 which is also her 60th Bridal collection. Many might have been tempted to look back and celebrate previous successes, however, Vera Wang never fails to look ahead and design for the future. Vera Wang is not afraid to sway away from the classical silhouettes or challenge herself to new silhouettes with classic textiles. The Bridal Fall 2020 collection was fun and fresh, innovative and full of classic bridal white, which feels very refreshing in a time when colours seem to dominate the Bridal trends.

The collection featured a variation of silhouettes from high-low to sleek and fitted in addition to a few styles that borderline avant-garde details. She continues to play with straps, oversized sleeves, layers and removable pieces such as straps and bras. The colour palette was kept in white tones with contrasting black as embroidered statements and accessories as well as a beautifully tailored A-line dress with almost two sets of skirts styled with an exquisite hat and mint leather gloves. Other stand-out pieces were the white ballgown with ruffles and skirt in chiffon and tulle with a black embroidered “I DO” in gothic letters and a removable black bra and straps along with the two beautiful fitted and sleek dresses with over-the-shoulder straps and sleeves. The collection also featured a few more classic silhouettes such as the easy-to-wear dress with oversized sleeves.  

Vera Wang’s Fall Bridal 2020 collection shows exactly why the experienced designer has been relevant for so many years. She is bold and unafraid when it comes to experimenting with both silhouette, textiles, and details and thus manages to win new territory again and again.

Alena Akhmadullina's American Excursions

By Linda Bezos

Alena Akhmadullina is slowly breaking into the American market. Her work has always been about extravagance that works as a buffer for exclusivity within the context of the Russian and Eastern European ruling classes. But that same appeal would be viewed as impractical within the context of American ruling classes as less is more when it comes to less flashy cultural elites. And as she navigates into the American market she is slowly but surely understanding the role of minimalism even when the work in itself holds true to a celebration extravagance. Her Fall 2018 collection is built for the American market in mind. It is more minimalistic comparatively speaking and has the traditionalist element of Alena's homeland constructed into it. The usage of less fur and more light fabric makes this collection the most accessible for the American and European market and are likely to further Alena’s reach. 

From Dundas With Love

by Linda Bezos

Russian influence is everywhere at this point. From Syria to the voting booths of America. But fashion has been one area where that influence exists in a limited dosage for better or for worse. Apart from few native Russian designers, russian aesthetic doesn't have a leg to stand on in the big four. Insert Peter Dundas who with the help of Natasha Poly delved into the Russian aesthetics with charmingly superficial way. Peter's work needs no introduction, his previous three collections were/are as solid as they come. So to expect anything different in terms of this would be silly. But the introduction of this orientalist understanding of Russian aesthetics has a wonderfully intriguing element that has rarely been explored when it comes to Russian fashion. The western European sense of style and proportions meets the intricacies of Russian whimsy and provocativeness. To call this collection anything less than getting your feet wet with an ethereal understanding of russian fashion would be unfair, to call this collection brilliant for the same reason would be perfectly accurate.    

The Legacy Principle with Burberry

by Lotus Ladegaard

Burberry has been around for more than 150 years giving the fashionistas around the globe outdoor attire with a focus on tailoring. In 2018, Riccardo Tisci was announced as Burberry’s Chief Creative Officer, and just a few months later, Tisci presented a new logo and monogram. Tisci has successfully integrated streetwear touches into the iconic Burberry tartans, and thus revamping the brand’s aesthetics. The current times have forced fashion houses to think out of the box when it comes to presenting their collection. With the current restrictions in the UK, the brand used nearby iconic London doors as the backdrop to their collection photos. Which, by the way, works just as beautifully as the styled photo studios. The Resort Spring 2021 collection featured a parade of looks that offers a little Burberry for most preferences. The fusion of iconic fabrics and silhouettes with modern details and beautiful tailoring is bound to excite fashion editors. Pieces like the classic camel trench coat with Burberry in cap letters on the belt and at the bottom of the coat and the yellow and grey tartan suiting with the color block in white and camel Burberry plat stood out as showstoppers. The little black bomber jacket styled with long black shorts and knee-high socks along with the black flower printed long shirt with white collar and intricate details on the sleeves styled with straight black flower printed trousers felt fresh and new. Overall, Burberry delivered a beautiful and exquisitely tailored Resort Spring 2021 that is bound to be a success and possibly win over new admirers.

Caught Red Handed with Red Valentino

by Bianca Hill

Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli found his inspiration in the undying spirit of the Mexican women revolutionaries in his latest collection for a brand that has always championed that cause with utter ease and great aesthetics. The contrast of women revolutionaries with the soft edge of femininity playing intricately with the roughness of their existence is fully realized in this collection. It is wild and subtle at the same time, with movements draped into each piece. There's a restlessness to it and there's a lot of red to it as well. It is a proper Valentino joint. 

Standing Out with Étoile Isabel Marant

by Lotus Ladegaard

Originally launched as Twen, the French fashion house Isabel Marant has been around since 90s. In its early beginnings, the brand only featured a line of jersey and knitwear but has since moved on to consist of several lines including Men’s Wear and the more affordable and casual line Etoile. Designer Isabel Marant collaborated with H&M on a collection, which sold out in minutes online and caused the website to crash. Although the French designer has faced many challenges in recent years, she has persevered and continue to create exciting and bold collections.

For Spring 19, Isabel Marant has created an Etoile floral and ruffled collection with adorable and interesting pieces that certainly will appeal to a world of her loyal followers. It is feminine, contemporary and feels fresh and thus will speak to young fashionistas. The collection features a bundle of separates that will easily be adapted into most existing wardrobes. The colour palette was anything but simple, but instead had a little of everything along with many floral prints. The silhouettes were sleek and tailored and offered pieces for most occasions. 

Isabel Marant knows how to make her pieces stand out and offer fashionable alternatives, so it is no surprise that her Etoile Spring 19 collection had it all. Several pieces and looks stood out like the blue shirt almost resembling a vest with red sleeves styled with cut-out trousers, and the pastel dress with ruffled shoulders and slightly puffed sleeves gathered at the waist. Some of the subtler pieces also stood out like the grey blazer styled with a white detailed shirt and cut-out shorts, and the flowy floral dress in dark brown and burnt orange. A few pieces felt somewhat boring and unimportant, however, overall Isabel Marant delivered a beautiful Etoile Spring 19 collection that will excite many.

Isabel Marant knows women want to stand out and dressed in her garments, they are bound to do exactly that in this collection.
 

Rodebjar and the Long Lost Italian Summer

by Olivia Moreau

Stockholm-based Carin Rodebjer is either bored of the Swedish functionality and sleek lines or is a big fan of the Amalfi coast. Whatever it is, it works for her as she constructed a set of clothes that are ethereal and light, loose and delicate in their silhouettes conjuring up nothing Swedish apart from the name. Nautical White to shades of prints in colored maze gives the collection the necessary 'gone fishing' vibe and provides a visual getaway for not only in Sweden suffering from the scandi-weather, but also in new york which is suffering from the cold sweet tooth of winter. This is escapism at it's most loose and finest.   

Kimonos and Metalworks of Fendi

by Lotus Ladegaard

With just a few years short of 100 years in the world of fashion, it is no surprise that the Italian house of fashion is a household name and a staple in its industry. Led by the fifth generation Fendi sisters, Fendi has continuously designed Led successfully through generations by the Fendi Family, the brand has established itself as a luxury brand with a focus on especially fur and leather pieces. In 1965 Karl Lagerfeld joined the company and became the Creative Director for fur and women’s ready-to-wear, the latter was launched in 1977.

For Prefall, Silvia Venturini Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld have found inspiration in ironwork and kimonos. The mix might have an odd ring to it, nevertheless, the two insightful designers have created an interesting and bold collection. The collection is intriguing and exciting with plenty of references to artwork on iron gates and vintage men’s kimonos, some more literal than others.

The color palette is far from subtle although at first glance it might seem somewhat subdued. The bold prints and severe tailoring transfers really well at a second glance and it makes quite the impact. As always with Fendi, the tailoring and finishing are absolutely exquisite and impeccable. The contrast between the masculine, sharp silhouettes and the ornamentation and frills made it a very Fendi-esque collection.

Many of the suits and coats were elongated creating an interesting silhouette and featured quirky embellishments such as oddly shaped lapels and oversized pockets. Coats were often styled with aetherial pleaded skirts or very feminine pieces.

From suits and fur coats to dresses and skirts, the Fendi Prefall 2019 collection offered it all with several standout pieces such as the dress with cut-out sleeves in an earthy brown tone and the silk printed dress with kimono sleeves just to mention a few.

Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld have yet again created a beautiful and very fashion forward collection that will appeal not only to their loyal followers but to women around the world. It is exciting and nothing short of what is expected from the prestigious Italian fashion house.

Tory Burch and the Redux in Americana

by Soledad Christina Rodrigues

Tory Burch is the perfect example of American exuberance. She resort collection encapsulates that aspect of her identity along with the imagery of her Philadelphia childhood in one singular narrative. From printed birds to tweed printed suits, the obvious attachment to the 70s make this resort collection nostalgic with a hint of Americana. It is a celebration of Tory’s uncanny ability to remain in the moment while passing on that same feeling to her admirers.

Prabal Gurung, the Stalwart of New York Fashion

by Lotus Ladegaard

Prabal Gurung entered the world of fashion through Parsons School of Design and an internship with Donna Karan. Following Parsons, the Nepalese American designer joined Cynthia Rowley’s design team before being appointed Design Director for Bill Blass. In February 2009, he successfully launched his own collection during New York Fashion Week and in the autumn of 2010, he staged his first runway show at Bryant Park. He has quickly gained a wide celebrity following among stars as well as some of the most influential people in the business. Oprah Winfrey, Michelle Obama among many others have worn Prabal Gurung on the red carpet  

Prabal Gurung’s Prefall 2018 collection is delightful; it is fresh, feminine and romantic. The colour palette offers a bit of everything from pastels to brighter and more intense mustard yellow as well as several floral prints and just a few but very thoughtful embellishments. Prabal Gurung really knows how to appeal to the feminine aspect of a woman with silhouettes that are flattering, easy to wear.

The mustard yellow gown with asymmetrical ruched bodies and long high slit along with the floral tea-length dress stood out. The use of the two floral prints is done thoughtfully and gives the dress tons of editorial appeal. The little white dress with fur trimmings and black striped skirt is delightful and fresh and again, the fabric choice is just right for the silhouette and design. The tartan like draped dress with trousers is a look that will appeal to women of all shapes and sizes and it looks easy and effortless. The blue dress with visible and broad princess seams and chiffon pleads in tea length is fresh and feels contemporary yet elegant and classic.  The ruffled dresses will undoubtedly appeal to a wide range of fashionistas in need of a dress that is elegant and romantic yet stands out in a crowd. The skirts and tops are easily paired with an existing wardrobe which all makes for a very intriguing collection.
 

Badgley Mischka and the Flex in Flexibility

by Olivia Moreau

Badgley Mischka named their dress after their Hollywood clientele which includes Beyoncé and Blake Lively. The throngs of B named dresses had an A-list feel to it very few designers have been able to court. The dresses were built with power mesh fabrics which replaced boning, and stretch-paneled sheer corsetry provided unprecedented flexibility for such high-end wedding gowns. Flexibility and intricate weaving make this collection one of the most sought-after work during this Fall season. 

Edeline Lee's Secret Garden

by Lydia Schaff

Edeline Lee ventured inward to find her zen wrapped in traditionalism of the east. Chaos and Clarity is the foundational structure of her new collection. It is hard to ignore the monastic tone of her collection as she imbued her aesthetics with solid palettes and dark floral jacquards which were a nod to the Garden of Eden. While employing technique draping and tassel trimmings that were reminiscent of Ayurvedic robes, she re-conceptualized the collection as a form of protection against the myriad upheaval of the outside world. It is a collection deeply rooted in the sophistication of a designer who embraces her introvert-ness as a form of armor. 

Brunello Cucinelli and an Ode to Italian Consistency

by Lydia Manna

Brunello Cucinelli’s love for his Italian countryside roots is re foundation for a lot of his collections and his fall collection does not veer away from that. And that is a good thing. His work for the last four decades have been of utmost excellence and formidable quality. He has spent hours and hours perfecting what you would call the BC look. While that look may not be distinguishable to the average eye, anyone who follows fashion and understands the need to keep to moving forward, loves Brunello’s work. From a little deconstruction to a bit of a stiff silhouette BC’s work can toe to toe with anyone working in the industry at this point.

Fendi's Flow of Functionality

By James Heaton

Clare Waight Keller’s Fendi is a big tent brand. It wants to capture the most basic elements of our lives while providing a sense of luxury and whimsy. And by and large, it succeeds with a certain kind of ease which you have come to expect from CWK. The incorporation of functionality as a brand ethos have benefitted Fendi greatly and there is little doubt that CWK have instilled that belief to be proliferated through both womenswear and menswear lines. While the menswear line is a bit static due to its overwhelming attachment to the Tisci’s reign and to an extent tired Parisian aesthetics of tailored-loose contrasts, the womenswear line brimming with sophistication and clarity of ideas. The progression of CWK as a heavyweight of fashion is evident both in form and function in this collection. While that is easy to state for a brand like Fendi, it is hard to find one’s own voice when you are in charge of a big fashion house. CWK does this with ease. And that ease translates into Fendi’s resurgence as one of the strongest performer artistically and commercially.

Red Valentino and the Joy of Lightness

by Olivia Moreau

Pierpaolo Piccioli saunters through Red Valentino as a designer who is completely comfortable with who he is. While the artistic struggle to remain consistent and relevant still remains (as it should) Red Valentino takes on the role of a sheltered existence from the harshness of reality. At a time when feminism is truly under siege from old white men, Red Valentino provides an ecosystem of aesthetics built solely on the shoulders of romanticism. The quality of work and the presence of multicolored, soft fabrics layered with even softer tones make this collection feel like cotton candy…sweet, nostalgic and may be a bit too ethereal. But in a world where celebrities throw “Handmaiden Parties” and abortion rights are being trampled, this sort of softer aesthetics provides a brief sense of joy and a brief sense of serenity. And that remains the primary value of fashion.

Celine, Into the Wild

by Lotus Ladegaard

Since early 2018, Celine has undergone a style change under the direction of Hedi Slimane, who’s approach is much more influenced by indie rock and the adolescent spirit. The infusion of his aesthetics has undoubtedly made the French fashion brand much more relevant and focused on the future.

This resort collection felt easy and fresh, filled with items to mix and match with just about any existing wardrobe. Truly relevant with the current status quo of the world, the collection featured jeans, dresses, outerwear, and cozy sweaters which could be worn any time of the year although probably not anywhere.

Pieces like the black vest styled with a white shirt, a pair of jeans and a leather bag and the oversized sweater almost resembling an anorak are bound to have some youthful appeal.

Overall, Hedi Slimane delivered a collection that will do and sell well with its easy-to-mix appeal and youthful aesthetics.

Bally and the Silhouettes of Consistency

by Veronica Duffour

With the introduction of vintage Everest motif sweaters to the cowled colored shearlings, Bally finds its inspiration from the Alpine Peaks to the vast Swiss mountain ranges and produces a collection steeped in retro charm. Bally remains a brand that is polished and always well groomed, but never really going outside it’s comfort zones and while that may seem too static for some brands, Bally’s confidence in the aesthetics it propagates suggests a brand that likes to hold the line. And within that line is excellent stitching, carefully constructed narrative and a certain sense of posh comfort. Bally is what Bally has always been and for that reason Bally’s consistency is so admired.

Henrik Vibskov's Bath Rituals

by Lotus Ladegaard

It was all fashion, drama, theatre and show boiled into one at the Henrik Vibskov AW20 show entitled Please Remove Before Washing.

Henrik Vibskov is the most recognizable name in Danish fashion. He is easily one of the most celebrated and successful Danish Designers of the last decade. Every fashion editor and fashionista attended the much-anticipated show.

Models walked a catwalk decorated with models in bathtubs which made for a very Vibskov show. Ten looks in, a female voice announced it was an emergency and everyone had to leave the premise. Many, thinking it was part of the show, stayed on until the Vibskov team finally made everyone leave. Following a short break outside, he was luckily able to continue his show. It was everything we have come to expect from the Danish designer and more. His AW20 collection was bold and intriguing and certainly a crowd favourite. The AW20 collection offered a little of everything and featured a busy colour palette. As always, he presented a ton of showstoppers that are bound to excite fashion editors around the globe.

Looks like the yellow raincoat layered on top of an olive-green trench coat and curry yellow pants along with a Samurai inspired kimono in print certainly stood out as a fabulous showstopper. The long printed dress with a wrap detail around the waist layered upon trousers in the same print, as well as the oversized bomber jacket in orange styled with a printed dress, printed stockings and a yellow sweater around the waist, were other standouts. Henrik Vibskov delivered a creative and solid AW20 collection that despite the drama made an impact and undoubtedly will be remembered as the most consequential shows of the CPHFW.

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