Americana by Adam Lippes

By Lotus Ladegaard

Adam Lippes began his career at Polo Ralph Lauren, and soon found himself at the cusp of greatness as he joined Oscar de la Renta, and became the youngest Creative Director of any Fashion house around. In 2014, he founded his eponymous brand with a play on American sportswear with unassuming elegance and understated designs. His designs are known for its ease and details.

For AW19, Adam Lippes presented an interesting collection that will excite his followers and undoubtedly be noticed by fashion editors. It is understated, detailed and feels fresh and easy. The silhouettes featured easy-to-wear as well as more fitted pieces. The color palette offered a little bit of everything from basic black and white tones to pastels tones and bold yellow and red along with a few busy burgundy red prints.

Several looks stood out while the collection also had a few less flattering looks. Among the stand-out pieces were a white high collar blouse styled with a fitted pair of black trousers which oozed of a distinct sense of style . Also, the burgundy red printed two-piece set with a dark beige cape stood out and made a strong impression.

Pieces like the yellow ruffled chiffon dress and the yellow ruffled blouse styled with a pair of dark army green shorts along with a pastel-colored ruffled chiffon blouse styled with tartan printed skirt were less flattering to a woman’s body, and thus not the most successful ones.

But Adam Lippes know how to design and tweak American sportswear into high fashion such as the lime green easy-to-wear dress and the burgundy red dress with multi-colored hemline styled with a coat in the same print along with the long red silk dress.

It is easy to spot why Adam Lippes has made a name for himself with his eye for details and play on American Sportswear. And this collection further establishes his own sense of aesthetics as a formidable commentary on Americana.

The One and Only Moncler 1 with Pierpaolo Piccioli

By Eva Lighthouse

Moncler’s Genius project is ambitious. Producing 11 collectionsside by side requires a level of coordination only Moncler seem to pull off seamlessly. Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Moncler 1 was most definitely the one that stood out in a collection of outstanding clothes. Valentino’s creative director took on the collaboration to a new level by approaching Liya Kebede to provide the patterns and aesthetic of her sustainable and socially responsible Ethiopian label lemlem. And what comes out is a mind-blowing collection of Street-smart couture that is art and commerce at the same time. The intricacy and the range of this collection is most definitely the best collection we have seen so far and it will be hard to top.

Jill Stuart's Chelsea Girl

by Olivia Moreau

Jill Stuart delved into the narrative of an empowering woman during NYFW. Her previous work which by any measure has been a celebration of women of all different kinds and shapes was the foundation of this wonderful presentation. Forging the traditionalist format of a catwalk, Jill Stuart decided to evoke "the Chelsea Girl" movement as her inspiration. In terms of the aesthetics, the clothes were old school romanticism mixed with new school functionality. From the metallic brocade coat and microfloral silk dress engrossed in a copy of Pulp Fiction to the Langley Fox illustrations, the whole presentation had a feel of richness and deep understanding of what makes clothes beautiful. Visually stunning, intellectually stimulating and thought down to every detail Jill Stuart outdone herself in this wonderfully rich and evocative collection. 

Giambattista Valli's Poised Poetry

Giambattista Valli’s primary consumer base is well heeled women of a certain ilk. By that I mean women who like transitional wear from work to play to work. So his resort collections are always a happy medium between those through elemental aspect of the human experience. Add talent and a sense of whimsy to the process and you have a collection brimming with poise, clarity and above all pleasure. Visually soothing, intellectually intriguing and subtly comfortable in its realm of glam and functionality, GV’s work is as substantive as ever in this resort collection.

Futurism's Siren with Iris van Herpen

by Olivia Moreau

Movement and symmetry govern how we see fashion and fabrics in general. So it would be a bit counter-intuitive if a designer decided to slow down that process and bring rigidity to the conversation as a form of wearable art. But Iris van Herpen does not go by anyone's rules. She is a continent of ideas all by herself and this couture collection is brooding with all shapes and sizes of counter-intuitive prescription for a weary fashion editor. Haute Couture's most formidable futurist weaves a sense of dynamism in this mind-altering collection. 

Carolina Herrera and the Levity of Color

by Olivia Moreau

Carolina Herrera suffered some personal tragedies this year and her ancestral homeland is in the midst of an economic crisis exasperated by a communist dictatorship. So it would be perfectly fine if her pre-fall collection came out in dark, broody colors. But that is not who she is and her collection is full of joy and vigor. She embraces happiness through silhouettes and the mix of foundational colors with strong embroidery. From rainbow stitches to floral embroidery that find inspiration from Flemish floral art, her collection lights up an otherwise gloomy year for a lot in the fashion industry. The materials carefully crafted with chiffon and georgette made the collection look more traditional yet youthful to the core. If happiness could wear a dress, it would surely walk into Carolina's atelier.  

For a Proper New York Fall Feel dial 6397

by Olivia Moreau

Stella Ishii and her team are well known within the New York scene for their Tomboy-ish wear. The obvious homage to scandi-fashion has always been evident in her work. This season she pushes that boundary to incorporate a bit more global, less regional aesthetics by bringing in sharply constructed clothing and even clearer lines. The menswear inspired aesthetics is still the foundation of her work, but incorporation of delicate fabrics from pink silk to soft wool opens up a new and exciting territory for Stella's future endeavors. 

Luisa Beccaria and the Sirens of Femininity

by Lucia Chianese

Luisa Beccaria is the epitome of ethereal femininity. The pre-fall/resort collection does not veer away from the levity of such lightness. It fully embraces it. From powder pink to whimsical lavender the clothes were steeped in the romantic notion of femininity. While the fashion world is moving toward more functional clothing with athleisure slowly taking up a lot of the prospective markets, the appeal of Luisa's clothes is undeniable. Sure there was some pretense of functionality but the DNA of the brand is deeply rooted in evocative, bohemian femininity, something that stands out and touches you gently, yet never imposes on the aesthetics. 

45.3K

Aquilano Rimondi and the Joy of Symmetry

by Olivia Moreau
 

For Resort 2018, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi take inspiration from Joan Mirò's paintings  The incorporations of  graphic connections and primary colors often in contrast, characterize the vertical bands that outline the silhouette, emphasizing the duality in movement and static.

The puffy sleeves and ribbon revers, with asymmetrical cuts exude sensuality in hammered slipped crêpe, while sticking the DNA of minimalism. Experimentation with colors and stripes pays off as every single piece has a story to tell. 

 

 

Fall Foliage with Osman

by Irene Bisset

Osman Yousefzada has built a reputation of undeniable envy through flattering silhouettes infused forward thinking clothing. While he has never ventured into the outright avant-garde his work is a beautiful bridge between commercially successful and stylistically ambition aesthetics. This collection is built on that foundation. Floral Prints, ruffles, sheer fabrics all take their respective places in Osman’s universe as he fashions the fashion into accessible yet exclusive heights. From leathery skirts to shimmery dresses the collection feels complete and precise with it’s brevity just like Osman’s work.

Photographs Courtesy of Osman

Balmain and the Search for the Exquisite

by Lotus Ladegaard

Balmain has leaped into the 21st century ever since Olivier Rousteing arrived at the prestigious Fashion House. He has revamped the aesthetics and made it relevant yet remained very true to the Balmain DNA.

For Pre-Fall, Olivier Rousteing found inspiration in the archives and thus paid homage to some of Pierre Balmain’s very own favorite designs and revamping them into very contemporary pieces. It made for a stunning and impressive Pre-Fall collection full of showstoppers and stand-out pieces. Giving old Balmain classics a facelift might have been a risk for some, but Olivier Rousteing manages to do so with bravura.

The color palette was anything but simple; it featured a variety of tartans, varieties on paisleys, baroque embroidering in silver and gold, animal print, dots and stripes along with some splashes of bold blue, yellow and red. The silhouettes were very Balmain but also featured some variations and even offered a couple of easy-to-wear pieces.

Perhaps the most successful pieces were the paisley along with the tartan and embroidered pieces although the Jolie Madame jacket with the Pierre Balmain signature strong shoulders in black with leopard spots and the pared-down tuxedo dress also stood out as Balmain classics and showstoppers that any fashion editors would love to shoot.

The Balmain Pre-Fall collection is exquisite, bold and fashion-forward. It is bound to do well with its celebrity following, fashion editors and fashionistas alike around the globe. Olivier Rousteing has delivered another successful collection and continues to move Balmain forward while never forgetting the Fashion House’s past.

Too Hot for Couture with Inbal Dror

by Samantha Arnold

Inbal Dror has built up a reputation of outright excellence for her Haute Couture collection. And her current bridal collection stands heavily yet confidently on that reputation. From front slits and plunging necklines to shimmery beads, often tempered by traditional ball skirts and long sleeves, this collection is for the modern bride and on the move celebrity. The details make the collection but it is lines and silhouette that builds the foundation of this wonderfully intricate series of dresses. This collection stands out as not only because of it's exquisite nature but also Inbal's willingness to create something more approachable for the less famous brides. 

Antonio Berardi and the Pursuit of Precision

by Lotus Ladegaard

Antonio Berardi was fast-tracked into a fashion career when he studied at the prestigious Central St. Martin’s College of Art and Design, meanwhile working as John Galliano’s assistant. He graduated in 1994 with a noticeable collection which attracted London buyers such as Liberty and A La Mode. He launched his first professional collection the following season. Unlike may other fashion houses, Antonio Berardi’s eponymous house is run completely autonomous due to the designer’s sense for not only fashion, but also manufacturing and business. 

Antonio Berardi has become synonymous with sensual figure-hugging dresses and classic silhouettes. He focusses much on the manufacturing techniques and is not afraid to try out new ones, he also works with advanced fabrics and plays with them. Drawing on influences from many different genres and disciplines from arts to his Sicilian heritage, he always manages to create pieces that collaborate with the female form and enhances it. 

For Resort 2019, the UK born designer presented an interesting and fabulous lookbook that is bound to take fashion editors by storm around the world. It might not be the most glamorous, however, it feels fresh, real and each look stands out. The colour palette was vibrant and fresh with multi-coloured prints, stripes, yellow as well as more subdued tones like dusty and dark green, grey and a pale blue. The silhouettes offered a little bit of everything from fitted and tailored dresses to easy-to-wear dresses. 

Antonio Berardi is a master when it comes to cut and precision, he knows how to construct garments to enhance the female form and every single look has been worked to perfection by him. In such a lookbook most looks stand out and make an impact, especially the burnt printed caftan in chiffon and the multi-coloured striped suit. The oversized yellow dress with pleated skirt felt fresh and youthful while still remaining luxurious and glamorous. The grey/white ruffled top with grey skirt was another exquisite look that showcased his eye for details. Another very stylish look was the layered look with grey trousers and tops with extra length and width at the back as well as little bolero jacket in a busy print. 

Antonio Berardi has created a very fresh, relatable and interesting Resort collection that will take fashion editors around the globe by storm. It will appeal to all his fans and might even pull out a few new ones. 
 

Oscar de la Renta and the Winds of Change

by Alara Brodfeld

Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim’s Oscar de la Renta is a product of the new firmly entrenched in the old. And their bridal collection sits right in between that equipoise. While benefitting from the ongoing revolution in the bridal market where traditionalism is being slowly inched toward avant-garde, their work provides consumers with the right kind of choice. A choice between haute couture heavy to iconoclastic edgy. That being said if you want an outright rejection of bridal traditions, you may have to look elsewhere as Garcia and Kim subtly addresses the traditionalism through floral appliqués and tufted tulle trains. A concise and ultimately visually pleasing collection of bridal wear suggest Oscar de la Renta is on the right path, all be it a little too cautiously.

Givenchy and the Colors of Transition

by Clara Thomas 

Claire Keller took over the role of Givenchy's artistic director right before this collection came to fruition but those of us who were seeking a peek into the future was duly notified that this collection is a product of the design team and the artistic director has not fully settled into her role yet. So this collection is a transitional collection but that being said, the design teams at Givenchy are no slouches, as they produced a collection full of vigor, color, and verve. This the singular tones may come across as a bit too structured, they do provide a very strong foundation for Claire to experiment and move this iconic brand forward. 

Miami Vice with Fausto Puglisi

by Sylvia Stoss

Fausto Puglisi has many inspirations but his work remains his own. Despite his obsession with Versace, he has carved out a niche of his own in this unforgiving market. Feminine, cheeky and above all, uncompromising in its aesthetics Puglisi’s collection bores the quality of a designer completely comfortable in his skin. Oozing with sex and a sense of Miami whimsy embroidered with palm trees and color blocks, Puglisi's collection is just another piece of a masterpiece Fausto is building.


Striking a Pose with Zac Posen

by Andrea De Silva

Zac Posen encapsulates drama like no other. This resort collection is inevitably full of drama with floral prints to frocks that evoke a sense of poetry. The movement and the silhouettes of the collection are firmly on the cusp of evening wear which is Zac Posen’s bread and butter. But beyond that, this collection also feels much more organic and less planned, and foundationally closer to a full wardrobe as opposed to a full narrative. The signature Posen elements are all there with a sense of spontaneity and clarity of vision. If there is a grand narrative in each artists vision, then this collection fits in nicely with Posen’s previous work yet stands out with a sense of purpose.

Maison Francesco Scognamiglio and The Couture of Capri

Francesco Scognamiglio dedicated his collection to the island of Capri where absurdity, fashion and excess exists within the same realm of reality. And looking at his collection is easy to see why he found such inspiration to be worthy of his expression of couture. The homage to Capri’s lush greenery is evident in the color palettes that veer from turquoise to blue to pink with the whiff of the antique white. It is almost a love letter to an island that he would be hosting a private show in august. And if this is any indication, the love affair would be a long lasting one.

The Rising of Wunderkind

by Lydia Schaff

Wolfgang Joop's Wunderkind has become a german heavy hitter within the industry. With the introduction of the "Berlin spirit" it has slowly but surely moved toward a more cohesive minimalist structure that appeals to the german market. Wunderkind has become sort of a platform as opposed to just a design label for Joop's vision of Berlin as he collaborates with talents all across the creative field. Whether or not this Hugo Boss meets Celine' aesthetics is a sure fire way to consumer's hearts is yet to be tested, but if the current collection is any indication of things to come, then we are seeing a foundation being built for a very successful reboot. 

3.6M