The Rising of Wunderkind

by Lydia Schaff

Wolfgang Joop's Wunderkind has become a german heavy hitter within the industry. With the introduction of the "Berlin spirit" it has slowly but surely moved toward a more cohesive minimalist structure that appeals to the german market. Wunderkind has become sort of a platform as opposed to just a design label for Joop's vision of Berlin as he collaborates with talents all across the creative field. Whether or not this Hugo Boss meets Celine' aesthetics is a sure fire way to consumer's hearts is yet to be tested, but if the current collection is any indication of things to come, then we are seeing a foundation being built for a very successful reboot. 

Vera Wang's Spring Rebellion

by Anna Brosova

Vera Wang’s Spring bridal is a celebration of avant-garde wrapped in seasonal tidings. The layered complexity of each dress provides a true statement of feminism and femininity. While the color palettes remain traditional enough, the deconstruction of wedding wear as a statement piece for the avant-garde is inescapable. Vera’s work have been moving in this direction for the last three seasons and with each passing season her team add more context to an already beautiful mosaic of her progression as a designer and an artist. There are many wonderful designers in the wedding circuit now but no one walks the line of avant-garde and traditional like Vera does.

Alberta Ferretti and the Call of the Evolved Couture

by Sylvia Mathews

Alberta Ferretti built her empire on the foundation of light and flowy couture. From flexible silhouettes to shinny silk, her work has remained consistent and consistently good. So she would be in no hurry to change things up. But as it is with artists they rarely follow the safest route. And this Haute Couture collection is Alberta’s plunge into the unknown…into the structured silhouettes and more minimalist expressions of joy. All the other things that make her work standout still remain intact making this a collection worth savoring. Evolution always is.

Carolina Herrera's Refined Lightness

by Olivia Moreau

Lightness comes in many forms. From Kundera's unbearable lightness to Wes Gordon's delicate and romantic lightness. And Carolina Herrera's bridal collection is an accumulation of Wes Gordon's romantic vision where the structures of rigidity have slowly given birth to the lightness of ethereality. This collection Wes Gordon dives deep into the ethereal while leaving a lot to imagination and perspective. A lace based gown morphed as a restrained form of luxury is just one of the many surprises of Gordon's vision. Embroidered camellias and tulle filled gowns were the foundation of this lightness and with the right kind of touch which Gordon possesses, Carolina Herrera's legacy getting a proper makeover.

Holly Fulton's Love Letters to Europe

by Linda Bezos

Holly Fulton took a hiatus for almost a year and this is her second collection of her second coming. And by the looks of it, it is a second coming worth celebrating. Overture of Brexit dictated the foundational aesthetics of Art Deco graphics, the shape of the Empire State Building, large Swarovski crystals and Mongolian repurposed fur. The 'long-distance love affair' with Europe proper is peaking through her magnificent take on this calamity of isolationism that has gripped at least half of the British isles. Ultimately her collection is far more romantic than the nitty-gritty details of her inspiration Brexit which by any measure is an ongoing headache. But for sake of jest, a collection like this helps to deal with the magnificently daft decision that is Brexit. 

Jill Sander and the Second Coming of Ultra-Cool

by Linda Bezos 

Jill Sander's design team of Luke and Lucie Meier reconceptualizes the Jill Sander ethos through the aesthetic of polish and symmetry. The resort collection is full of personal fashion with grand ideas. Each individual piece fits nicely into the grand vision of the designers who instill radical and edgy elements to even the most mundane objects. Jill Sander's resort collection is full of grace, glory and outright rebellion but with an understated desire to fit in. It is a collection worth swooning over.    

Tory Burch Sports the Sports

By Olivia Moreau

Tory Burch Sport is what you would expect it to be... sporty. But just like every aspect of Tory's work it has an underlying layer that is quintessentially hip, quintessentially Tory. Mix and Match stripes to puffy jackets add a sense of streetstyle to Tory's already expansive work.  The bold checked version of tights along with exercise heavy gears are all part of a collection that is going to be a commercial win for Tory Burch. 

Naeem Khan and the Forces of Transformation

by Andrea Hanson

Naeem Khan's work is transformative. While that may seem like a philosophical statement, it is also a literal one when it comes to his bridal wear. A multitude of silhouettes in one single dress that can go from the wedding aisle to dance floor to morning brunch is something Naeem has been perfecting for the last few seasons and it is paying rich dividends. With each passing collection, Naeem is only making wonderfully intricate gowns but also removing a lot of stress from the bride by giving them multipurpose dresses and suits. Now you can truly go bonkers over your flower arrangements as the Naeem got you covered when it comes to your wedding dress.

Isabel Marant and the Pursuit of Le Chic'

by Olivia Moreau

Isabel Marant is the ultimate Parisian. Her sense of aesthetics is quintessentially French and overwhelming in its cool factor.  From wrap jackets and oversize coats, the silhouettes are all relaxed yet the underlying sense of structure, the method to the chaos is evident with each passing formation. Marant's style has driven the now fabled Parisian chic streetwear long before the oversaturated space of street style. And despite many pretenders, no one does the French high streets better than Isabel Marant. 

Co’s No Nonsense Clarity

by Julia Avila

Stephanie Danan and her partner Justin Kern are the brains behind Co. With minimalism playing a prominent role in their design aesthetics, Co team has an uncanny ability to make clothes seem like an elaborate statement. That in itself is a hefty ask, on top of that add a variety of silhouettes, and Co touches all demographic bases. Co makes rational, organic, pinpoint clothes…none of which by itself would be too exciting, yet Co’s clothes are brimming with wonderful electricity.

Maison Francesco Scognamiglio's Diva Allure

by Martha Newhouse

Scognamiglio’s penchant for a sexy, diva-esque allure telegraphed through feminine effervescence of frills and ruffles were on outstanding display for this haute couture collection. To be able to maintain freshness with a sense of whimsy while remaining true to the original form has been Scognamiglio’s more enduring achievement.

The Irrefutable Consistency of Haney

by Samantha Mitten

Mary Alice Haney does not suffer from variability in vision. From day one her label has been a celebration of the female form and the visual joy it brings. Holding on to that vision Haney's AW18 collection brings heavy hitters with ease and poise. From rhinestone studded separates to the high-slit gowns, the delectable minidresses provide wardrobe for a woman who is comfortable with who she is. 

The Joy of Olivier Rousteing w/ Balmain

by Lotus Ladegaard

Balmain has been around since 1946 and after years of static repetition new life has been infused into the traditional fashion house with the introduction of Olivier Rousteing as Creative Director. He has continuously managed to make an impact with both editors and fashionistas alike. He creates collections with a fresh take on French Couture yet remaining very Balmain.

Considering Olivier Rousteing’s recent posts on Instagram, the Prefall 2019 collection is hardly a major surprise, but the crafty designer knows how to work the social media to his advantage and the early spoilers set the Prefall collection perfectly. From Asian architecture to bold avant-garde couture and hints of Fantasia, the new collection is uniquely Olivier's own.

The Balmain Prefall 2019 collection is full of bold prints and strong silhouettes. It has a fresh and delightful feel about is and will undoubtedly excite the world of fashion. From spiked shoulders to exaggerated and avant-garde silhouettes, Olivier Rousteing knows how to deliver to the loyal Balmain followers as well as draw new in.

Several pieces stood out and left an impression like the black jackets with white lapels and oversized cuffs styled with loose yet sexy stonewashed jeans. The printed dress with an almost bare torso was another stand-out. The collection also offered several off-the-shoulder pieces like the embroidered dress with exaggerated skirt and bodice and the black and white dress with oversized sleeves which also stood out and made an impact.

As always, Olivier Rousteing has an eye for the finishing and delivered an impeccably tailored collection that is even more impressive when you take a second look at all the details and styling.

Balmain’s Prefall 2019 collection is another home-run from the exciting designer.

Viktor & Rolf's Frosted Fairytales

by Linda Bezos

Viktor & Rolf's Fall ’18, the duo’s third bridal collection was soaked and frosted into strong whites and nothing more. Ivory ball gowns with giant cascading bows along the skirt complemented by empire-waist minidresses and jumpsuits made the collection a modern take on a fairytale wedding. From the extravagance to minimalism, this collection bore what is foundationally V&R...a sense of intrigue, sexiness and uber feminity. 

Monique Lhuillier and the Near Eastern Charm

by Lotus Ladegaard

The Filipino-American designer Monique Lhuillier entered the world of fashion with her very own wedding, for which she created dresses for her family and bridal party. She quickly became known for her eye for sophisticated luxury, and gained a large celebrity following. Over the years, she has expanded her eponymous brand, which today include ready-to-wear, formal wear, bridesmaids and lifestyle items such as linens, tableware, fine paper and home fragrances.

For Fall 2019, Monique Lhuillier presented a collection packed with her signature silhouettes embellished with metallic, three-dimensional and jewel elements as well as florals in an equally sophisticated colour palette of blush, champagne and rose gold. The collection also featured capes, jackets and streamers which give it an overall vintage feel. Every dress and gown tell a story of its own, and thus every piece stands out.

The A-line dress in printed silk organza with matching floral veil as well as the drop-waist with rose-gold and wrapped chiffon embellishments were exquisite with beautiful finishing. The ballgowns were romantic and feminine, for the more adventurous bride, Monique Lhuillier also included one with adorable colourful floral embellishments. For the darker colder fall, the designer also added several options that can be worn before, during and after the actual ceremony such as a fur cape and a tulle jacket along with streamers.

Monique Lhuillier, yet again, proved she knows what brides want and are looking for. Regardless of other trends, she stays true to her designs and manages to incorporate these into her collection. The Bridal Fall 2019 collection is another home-run.

Playing Duro Olowu's Zora Neale Hurston on Repeat

by Lotus Ladegaard

Nigerian-born and London-based designer Duro Olowu has consistently pushed the envelope with his innovative combination of patterns and textiles, drawing on inspiration from his international background. His pieces often feature inspiration from all over the world along with his Nigerian roots. Duro Olowu knows textiles and how to create intriguing silhouettes and designs with an impact.

Over the years, he has gained a cult following which was partially a product generated by his high-waisted patchwork skirt that was hailed as the dress of the year by both British and American Vogue. And in 2005, he was named the New Designer of the Year at London Fashion Week, even without having a catwalk show that season.

For Spring 19, Duro Olowu presented a colorful and bold collection with plenty of his African influences and his signature prints, floral and polka dots that is bound to excite fashion editors around the globe as well as win over new fans and followers.

The blue floral dress in layered chiffon was exquisite and felt easy, yet glamorous. The green 1930’ies inspired dress was another example of dresses that felt easy yet had plenty of classic and elegant flair. Pieces with mixed prints are always a hit with Duro Olowu’s followers and many of them are beautiful and intriguing. They will certainly have an impact on any occasion.

More subtle pieces like silver blouses, a black dress with mixed textiles and suiting was also featured in the collection. The collection also followed suit on the very trendy stripes, which Duro Olowu has managed to mix with other prints and other stripes in a very interesting way. The red, black and white striped suit with a long coat and Asian collar was beautifully tailored and could easily be worn separately with other pieces.

Duro Olowu keeps on delivering and we keep on loving it. 

 

This Bohemian Wedding with Temperley London

by Lotus Ladegaard

Temperley London was established in 2000 by designer Alice Temperley and her partner Lars von Benningsen and quickly became known for its focus on luxurious fabrics and exquisite hand finishing. Until 2011, Temperley London showed at both New York Fashion Week as well as London Fashion Week, however, in recent years Temperley London collections have been presented via multimedia installations as opposed to the traditional catwalk shows.

Temperley London Bridal has always had a bohemian- and vintage-inspired aesthetics, it is playful and feminine with plenty of embellishments and frills. For Fall 2018, ten exquisite gowns inspired by the jazz-age were presented. It will undoubtedly speak to her loyal followers as well as playful, fun-loving brides around the globe.

The color palette was interesting and offered traditional white and ivory, but also blush and very delicate pink. As always, Alice Temperley has an eye for embellishments and know exactly how much to use and when to stop. The collection offered everything from an open back tulle gown with sequins to off-the-shoulder gown embellished with pink crystals and also included a hearts and flowers embellished dress as well as gowns for the party-loving bride.

Temperley London’s Bridal Fall 2019 collection is bound to excite her followers, fashionistas and fashion editors alike. It is filled with gowns that will make any bride stand out, and gowns that will speak to many brides.

Tailoring 101 with Victoria Beckham

by Lotus Ladegaard

Victoria Beckham has successfully transitioned from a novelty pop star in the world of fashion into a respected designer, who’s designs has a widespread appeal and is ever evolving. Using herself as an inspiration, she has moved from very fitted pieces to sporting a more relaxed style with loose bodices and oversized pieces. She launched her brand in ten years ago and it has since become a fixture at the prestigious New York Fashion Week. Victoria Beckham favours the wearable and relatable rather than showpieces, which her collections reflect.

For her Resort 2019, Victoria Beckham has returned to the very tailored and feminine pieces. The colour palette ranged from classic black, white and red to coloured prints and knits along with camouflage and beige tones. The oversized and loose pieces have been replaced with feminine, fitted and fierce dresses, suits and outerwear that reflect the designer’s own evolving in taste. It is easy to see Victoria Beckham and her story in this collection that embraces colour, prints and a little bit of rock’n’roll. 

The little pink dress mimicking a two-piece with white and pink shirt and a pink fitted skirt stood out with tons of editorial appeal along with being edgy and fierce. Several of the black looks all stood out such as the little fitted black tuxedo dress and the long A-line dress with brown and it would be easy to imagine the designer in any of these walking the red carpet. The printed pieces felt contemporary, youthful and fun and will undoubtedly win over a younger crowd.

Victoria Beckham presented another interesting and commercially viable Resort Collection and certainly made for a very tasty appetizer ahead of her show in September in London.
 

Underrated Charm of Smarteez

by Linda Bezos

Smarteez is soaked in smart design. A culmination of superfine cotton, silk, nylon, poplin create the main foundational fabrics for Smarteez, which is one of the most exciting yet underrated fashion houses in Italy right now. Marta Forgheiri, the main designer for Smarteez has the credentials (CSM trained) and the talent to consistently produce clothes that stand out. The name itself stems from the ridiculously well dressed Smarteez crew in Post-Apartheid South Africa and does it justice by creating aesthetically pleasing constructs that not only appeal to the visual markers of beauty and elegance but also appeals to the feeling of clothing which is so very important. Smarteez's autumn collection is full of that equipoise between fine fabrics and standout fashion. It is more global than Italian in its aesthetic expression and more Italian than global in its finishing. 

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The Rebellious Couture of Viktor & Rolf

by Lotus Ladegaard

The designer duo Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have always sought to challenge fashion preconceptions and link fashion and art. In their early beginnings, the world of fashion did not exactly welcome the Dutch duo, however, the world of art responded well and paved way for them. Known for their avant-garde and theatrical silhouettes and references, Viktor & Rolf always puts on a show on the catwalk. Although the bold and extravagant style is not to everyone’s taste, their pieces always manages to make a statement and leave and impression.

For Couture AW 2018, Viktor & Rolf has created an intriguing collection with highlights from the past 25 years all reworked, refreshed and reimagined in all white and Swarovski crystals. The collection was every bit avant-garde, dramatic and theatrical as anyone would expect from the Dutch design duo. It made for quite a spectacular show with so many stand-out pieces that editors will have a hard time choosing one. 

Pieces like the ballgown with corset bodice and tulle skirt with wholes in it and the suit wrapped in Swarovski crystal band stood out as bold and exciting while other pieces like the bed with pillows as collar and duvet off-the-shoulder dress and the NO coat finished with crystals stood out as humoristic and felt fun. A wrap-around dress with crystal splatters and completely open neckline and the ballgown wrapped at one shoulder with the words I love you on it, were feminine and romantic in that Viktor & Rolf way. A few pieces might have been somewhat over the top, however, is that not to be expected from avant-garde haute couture? Viktor & Rolf knows how to breath take an audience and deliver a good show.

The Couture AW 2018 collection is a fantastic and bold even for the avant-garde. It might not be to everyone’s taste, but Viktor & Rolf will always seek to challenge our perspectives and conceptions, whether we like or not. 

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