A Brief on Copenhagen AW22

by Lotus Ladegaard

CPHFW AW22 kicked off on a monday morning in early February. The Danish covid-19 restrictions were lifted just in time for many designers to choose physical attendance with non-traditional shows.

Soeren Le Schmidt is always a crowd favorite. Known for his many red carpet designs for Danish celebs and royals, Soeren Le Schmidt always delivers on exquisite tailoring and a crowd-pleasing show. His AW22 collection named ‘Fairytale’ was presented in classic carnival-style backdrops and props that had a quirky and humoristic way about them which in turn complimented his graphic and minimalistic looks.

His color palette was simple and mostly kept in black, white, and navy. His play with gender fluidity gave us some surprises and knock-out looks such as the black and white pantsuit with accentuated waist and flared pants and the black pants with black vest. Soeren Le Schmidt is always a great way to start Fashion Week.

The Hamburg-based label Fassbender has fashion veteran Christina Fassbender, her brother Sebastian Steinhoff and designer Matthias Louwen behind it and is considered a ‘Friends and Family business’. Fassbender is driven by a strong commitment to quality and responsibility and thus seeks an innovative approach with smart engineering and a technology-driven mission.

Fassbender delivered a solid and interesting AW22 collection on a traditional runway. The color palette featured neutrals such as black, white, beige, brown along with some splashes of bright colours such as red, green, and delicate pink. So many looks stood out such as the brown long satin shirt with high slits styled with a pair of ankle pants and a layered look with a pinstriped shiny coat over a brocade shirt and long skirt. Fassbender delivered another great collection that feels smart, young, and fresh.


Munthe is another must-see at Copenhagen Fashion Week. The Danish fashion staple has continued to deliver collections after collections that have that wow factor and has won over many fashionistas, not only in Denmark but around the world. Munthe has always drawn inspiration from art, architecture, nature, and music to create feminine suits, beautiful silhouettes, artistic hand-painted prints, and everything, we have come to know Munthe for.

For AW22, Munthe had opted for a digital show, showcasing a runway in a winter wonderland. As always, the color palette was busy with several prints, bold bright colors such as light blue bordering turquoise, a warm brown, and multi-colored prints. It would not be a Munthe show without a ton of showstoppers such as the shiny caramel quilted cape over a multi-colored ombre dress and the beige knitted dress styled with a three-colored bag along with the little black dress with ruffled sleeves. Munthe is always a show that is much anticipated and for good reason.

Of course, it wouldn’t really feel like Copenhagen Fashion Week without Danish renowned fashion designer, artist, curator, and musician; Henrik Vibskov, known for his eponymous fashion brand and its enticing universes and crossover into art installation, scenography, video, and performance.

His AW22 collection titled ‘Biblioteca of micro selves’ was presented on a Vibskov-traditional runway; models walked down next to stands with hanging see-through plastic shelves with dimmed orange light in them. His color palette was busy with an array of colors in different prints, stripes, and checkers. It would be hard to single out just a few with so many showstoppers and stand-out looks. Henrik Vibskov has never disappointed neither in design nor in showmanship, and his AW22 collection was no different.

With the promise of AW22, we look forward to CPHFW SS23.

Copenhagen State of Mind SS22

by Lotus Ladegaard

Attending Copenhagen Fashion Week, this season has been a bit of a logistical puzzle with physical shows and digital presentations throughout the day. But it is good to see that the old norms are changing. These are the shows that stood out!


Stine Goya

Stine Goya launched her eponymous brand in 2006 after years in the fashion industry. She saw a distinct lack of color in the Scandinavian palette and set out to change that. Her journey ever since has been colorful and vibrant. She has injected herself into the Scandinavian fashion scene and gained international attraction and recognition.

For her SS22 collection presentation, Stine Goya had chosen a Fashion Film titled “How Much Can We Grow?”. Her collection is a love letter to the world’s creative communities, to their contribution, visions, and voices. The film features a slow and shaded runway while a chant is recited by a choir. 

The collection was vibrant, colorful, and playful. The color palette was busy with mixed prints and bold colours, much like the Stine Goya universe. Pieces like the printed one-shoulder dress with an asymmetrical skirt and the printed blue oversize shirt with long blue shorts stood out. Other favorites were the long delicate yellow dress with neckline details along with the printed jacket with a green shirt and pants. 

Stine Goya’s universe is vibrant, bold, and colorful, her SS22 collection was no exception to that.

Mark Kenly Domino Tan

Designer Mark Kenly Domino Tan launched is namesake brand in 2014 after years in fashion houses such as Dior, Balenciaga, and Alexander McQueen. He is known for outstanding tailoring, impeccable quality, construction, and fine textiles. 

Inspired by his own wanderlust, the SS22 collection is a postcard from the past, trips to Morocco and South Africa with a magical atmosphere and cool and breezy nights. As always, much value has been placed on the choice of fabrics which include linen, silk, cotton mousseline, poplin, and wool. 

The color palette was kept in earthy tones such as white, ivory, beige, khaki, burnt orange and brown. Models walked a hallway with doors crossing each other’s path. Overall, the collection had tons of editorial appeal and impeccable tailoring. 

A whole array of looks stood out such as the khaki dress and pants with vest styled in layered look and the white shirtdress with a brown belt, pants, and loose jacket. Other favorites were the ivory maxi pantsuit with pockets along with the orange layered set styled with a bush hat.

Mark Kenly Domino Tan delivered another solid collection that is bound to excite fashionistas and fashion editors alike. 

Munthe

If you are not already in love with Munthe and her skillful eye for what women want in their wardrobe, her SS22 collection will win you over. 

Munthe has been a staple on the Danish fashion scene, and her take on feminine suits, beautiful silhouette dresses, artistic hand-painted prints, and constant innovation has won over many a fashionista.

Munthe’s SS22 collection based on the theme “beloved keepers” has found inspiration from the styles that she and her design team would want to wear. The collection is all about fresh beautiful silhouettes, effortless denim, stunning prints, and balance of each detail. The color palette was busy and very Munthe with lavender, dusty rose, blues, caramel, and bold prints. 

Munthe always delivers on showstoppers and stand-out pieces and the SS22 collection was no different. Pieces like the caramel coat with fringed styled with a dusty rose athleisure suit with a hoodie and the short animal print dress with papita checkered coat are bound to excite fashion editors along with pieces like the striped fitted knit dress and short pink leather dress. 

It is easy to see why Munthe is a favorite for many Scandinavians as well as celebrities around the world alike.

Vibskov

It is impossible to imagine Copenhagen Fashion Week without a show from the staple Henrik Vibskov. The renowned Danish fashion designer, artist, curator, and musician is known for his enticing universes and crossover into an art installation, scenography, costumes, video, performance, and exhibitions.

For his SS22 collection, Henrik Vibskov found inspiration in porcelain with silhouettes inspired by shapes of vases and bowls, the cubic colours are inspired by Japanese manual tie-dyeing Shibori technique. As always, the color palette was busy with bold colors and prints. 

The collection will excite most fashion editors as the endless stand-out pieces came down the runway. Looks like the multi-colored coatdress with matching socks and the purple mixed prints with white-collar along with green asymmetrical dress styled with black and white checkered socks were among some of the favorite looks. 

The black coat styled with a multi-colored lime green shirt and skirt and the men’s jumpsuit with color-blocked coat were big hits with the crowd. 

Henrik Vibskov remains a darling of fashionistas and fashion editors alike. He delivered another solid collection that will excite fans around the world and win over new territory.

Helmstedt

The young Danish designer is known for colors and craftsmanship, which has earned her acknowledgment throughout the fashion world. She has been featured in esteemed fashion publications such as Vogue, Elle, W magazine, and Women’s Wear Daily. 

For her SS22 collection, Helmstedt produced a runway show at Halvandet with models walking a runway barefoot near the waters with a wooden ship as a backdrop. It seemed like the perfect setting for the collection which felt fresh, young, and very summery. Kept in summerly pastels, the SS22 collection offered a little bit of everything for your wardrobe. 

Pieces like the white shirt and pants with printed sunflowers and a fish pocket and a sunflower headpiece along with delicate blush overall pants with printed sailor motifs and a white and pink striped insert at the bodice really stood out. Bathing close like the pale blue and green bathing suit with printed fish motifs and ruffles at the hip and the white and blue and pink striped bikini with ruffles and a collar were pieces that seem to excite the crowd.

Helmstedt delivered another solid collection that will excite her loyal fans and win over many a young fashionista.

Rains

Rains debuted onto the fashion scene in 2012 with a single item, a reinterpretation of the raincoat in the shape of a poncho. The outerwear brand quickly moved onto a full collection, which was presented the following season.

Rains opted for a fashion film for the presentation of their SS22 collection titled “Come Rain, Come Shine” shot in the streets of Copenhagen. The collection was delightful, relevant and had some true showstoppers such as the long purple poncho with high slits and the white vest with loose pants, and the quilted jacket with olive green rain pants.

Outerwear is an essential part of living in Scandinavia and thus easy to imagine where to wear looks like the cropped jacket with high waisted pants and the black sports jacket with belt and black shorts. 

Rains delivered an exciting collection of outerwear that will undoubtedly been seen around Scandinavia. 

Han Kjøbenhavn

Han Kjøbenhavn has always been a show to look forward to. Founder and Creative Director Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen certainly know how to put on a show as well as design for the minimalistic Scandinavians. Han Kjøbenhavn has a gritty aesthetic with an emotional core. The design fuses raw suburban culture with avant-garde Scandinavian design.

Han Kjøbenhavn had chosen a physical show much to the delight of the attendees. Models walked a runway in a dark room surrounded by the crowd. Diversity and gender fluidity have always been part of Han Kjøbenhavns's aesthetics and thus it was no surprise to see models with tattoos and male models in dresses.

For SS22, Han Kjøbenhavn presented an intriguing and interesting collection with exquisite tailoring. Several pieces stood out like the beautiful silver dress with plunging neckline and high slits and the textured oversize blazer with button details on the lapel and long dress. Pieces like the fitted mother-of-pearl-colored dress with corset bodice and trumpet skirt along with silver textured two-piece dress with an asymmetrical skirt and pleated detail were among the crowd’s favorites. 

Han Kjøbenhavn has a unique eye for what will excite the Danish fashion scene and the SS22 collection was no exception. It had tons of editorial appeal and will undoubtedly be featured in Scandinavian fashion magazines. 

Schnayderman’s 

The Stockholm-based modern brand had opted for a digital presentation with a short film, a fictional fashion show.

The SS22 collection titled “In-Transit” was created as a reflection on the past, present and future, featured intriguing artworks by renowned Swedish artist Marcus Mårtenson. The film featured three characters stranded at a post waiting to return to civilization while reflecting on the past, present, and future.

Schnayderman’s presented an SS22 collection that felt fresh and contemporary and featured many looks that will excite their loyal following of weird and wonderful fashionistas. Especially the Martin Mårtenson pieces stood out such as the carpet-like coat and the beige shirt with prints. The black jacket with suede inserts along with the long black coat with double lapels were other stand-out pieces.

The loyal Schnayderman’s fans will love this collection and it will most like win over new territory. 


The Garment

The Copenhagen-based brand with its singular aesthetic and minimalistic approach creates season-less and timeless pieces that can be restyled and used season after season. 

The Garment showcased their SS22 collection with a fashion film titled “Garment the Movie” with the idea of creating a time gap of no-mind. The movies composition was done with a slight defocus and with vintage edging. It has the Scandinavian summerhouse feel with birds chirping, nature sounds and instrumental music.

The collection was beautiful and with tons of editorial appeal. So many pieces stood out like the white high collar shirt with trumpet sleeves styled with a pair of loose pin-striped pants and the short black maxi dress with visible white stitching. Pieces like the white shirt with ruffled neckline styled with black quilted shorts and the high-collar crop top styled with a long coat and the loose pin-striped pants felt fresh and young. 

The Garment delivered another beautiful collection that undoubtedly will excite loyal fans and fashion editors alike. 

Rodebjer

The Swedish fashion brand was founded in New York in 2000 by Carin Rodebjer who set up with roots in feminist and environmental values. She has successfully grown the brand becoming a cult staple for her loyal fans. 

Rodebjer had also chosen a digital presentation shot on the busy summer city streets to showcase its SS22 sun-drenched collection. 

The collection featured pieces that fuse street style with easy summer looks. The collection was intriguing and exquisite with an array of showstoppers such as the multi-colored maxi dress with a ruffled high-collar and the white and delicate pink checkered suit. The beige knitted stretch dress styled with a trench coat and the linen brocade shirtdress were other favorites. 

Rodebjer’s SS22 collection is likely to do very well, and expect to see many of the pieces in the Scandinavian summer streets.

Soeren Le Schmidt

Soeren Le Schmidt has excited the fashion crowd ever since he debuted on the Copenhagen Fashion Week. He has become a household name by dressing the crown princess and celebrities alike.

SLS is known for its exquisite tailoring with rockabilly and playful edge with references to subcultures. He works in a multitude of twisted universes created with each collection featuring capsule collections of furniture, accessories, and more. 

Inspired by Danish architecture, culture, and classical music, SLS’s SS22 collection featured contrasts and unconventional with a simplified elegance. Soeren Le Schmidt had opted for a physical show. Models walked the runway to the tones of Danish singer-songwriter Mads Langer, who could be seen above in a black box with green lights. 

The color palette was simple and elegant kept in black and white, fluorescent silver, and a warm bright green. The show kicked off with a beautiful color-blocked black and white suit followed by a white tie-and-tail coat with black lapels setting the tone for the rest of the show. The green fitted pantsuit and the green blazer dress with front pattern detailing were other stand-out pieces. The black blazer-dress with asymmetrical sleeves and black vest with lapels styled with black pants were some of the crowd favourites.

Soeren Le Schmidt knows exactly how to design for his audience. His skilful eye for details and manipulating patterns has cemented him onto the runways and red carpets of Scandinavia. 

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