by Omi

Oslo runway had a few notable shows. While designers like Cathrine Hammel and Bytimo furthered their reputation as brands that are developing rapidly, the fashion week belonged to Holzweiler.

Holzwieler which started off as a strictly accessories line (cashmere and silk scarves) evolved into a clothing line in 2014. Generally when that happens brands tend to take a tentative step toward the new market but Holzwieler hit the ground running and their SS17 collection shows a certain promise and maturity that defy conventional wisdom. The exquisite setting at the Edvard Munch atelier provided the first glimpse of the ambition of the brand. As models rolled in with prints and pastel, beige and blue, the gloomy afternoon lit up with color and the traditionalist notion of monochrome Scandinavian design was out the window. The surprising wearability of the clothes on display stood out. The fine line between conceptual art and fashion design was distinctly evident in the colors, movements, and contours of Holzwieler. This is a brand that has successfully translated what works on accessories into what works on everyday wear. It is a rather unique feat as most if not all who take that route fail to tow that delicate line to create a line worth writing about. The beauty and brashness of the color complemented Edvard Munch’s atelier. But instead of all of us screaming in strange litost, we were pleasantly surprised by the maturity and poise of Holzweiler. 

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Omi is an editor at Deux. His photographic work can seen at the Smithsonian, Vogue and a plethora of fashion magazines.